Cartagena: My Walled City Wonder

We sailed in past the modern skyline and suddenly the old fortifications appeared like something from Pirates of the Caribbean. The cruise terminal is a 10-minute taxi into the walled city, and the second we passed through the clock tower gate I knew this day would rank top-five ever. The streets are a maze of mustard-yellow churches, emerald-green balconies, and palenqueras in fruit-bowl hats offering photos (tip them!).

We walked the walls at golden hour first — 500-year-old ramparts with cannons still pointing at the sea, breeze carrying arepa smells and salsa music. Then wandered Getsemaní neighborhood — street art exploding on every wall, locals playing dominoes on plastic chairs, kids kicking soccer balls. Plaza de la Trinidad at dusk was pure joy: food carts, dancers, and a 10-year-old who schooled everyone at breakdancing.

Lunch was at La Cevicheria (Anthony Bourdain's favorite) — octopus ceviche so fresh it tasted like the ocean, coconut lemonade that should be illegal. Afternoon was the Gold Museum (free!) and then the Inquisition Palace — creepy instruments but fascinating history. Ended with sunset from Café del Mar on the walls — passionfruit mojitos while the sky turned neon over the Caribbean.

The pros: insanely photogenic, incredible food, and locals who are proud and welcoming.

The cons: hot and humid weather, and street vendors can be persistent (though a polite "no gracias" works well).

Practical tips: Wear light clothing and comfortable shoes — the cobblestones are brutal. Stay in the walled city and Getsemaní — perfectly safe and vibrant. Use only official yellow taxis or Uber.