Cozumel, Mexico

My Cozumel Logbook

I've lost count of how many times I've visited Cozumel on Royal Caribbean ships — it's on nearly every Western Caribbean itinerary, so if you cruise out of Galveston, Tampa, or Fort Lauderdale with any regularity, you know this island intimately. And yet I still look forward to it every single time. Cozumel was my first real introduction to snorkeling in truly world-class water, my first time eating tacos al pastor from a street cart while mariachi played in the square, and my first understanding of why the ancient Maya chose this place as sacred. It's the Caribbean's most visited cruise port for good reason — the combination of underwater beauty, cultural depth, and sheer variety of options makes it endlessly repeatable.

The snorkeling and diving here are legitimately exceptional. Cozumel sits on the Mesoamerican Barrier Reef — the second-largest reef system on earth — and the visibility often exceeds 100 feet. On a good day, the water is so clear it's almost disorienting; you can see the sandy bottom 60 feet down and it looks close enough to touch. I've done the ship excursions to Palancar Reef and Colombia Reef more times than I can count, and every single time I'm surrounded by sea turtles, eagle rays, nurse sharks, and fish in colors I didn't know existed. The drift dives here are famous — you literally float with the current past coral canyons and swim-throughs without kicking, like flying through an underwater dream. Even for non-divers, the snorkeling at Chankanaab National Park or the beach clubs is excellent. I've taken complete beginners and watched their faces when they put their heads underwater for the first time and saw that reef. You can't fake that reaction.

Beach clubs are a major part of the Cozumel experience, and I've done most of them. Paradise Beach is probably my favorite for families — big pool, water toys, jet skis, and a lively atmosphere without being overwhelming. Mr. Sanchos is the all-inclusive party spot with unlimited food and drinks, pool floats, and a spring-break-for-adults energy that some people love and others find too much (I'm in the first camp after a few frozen drinks). Nachi Cocom limits daily guests so it's quieter and more relaxed — great for couples. Playa Mia is like a waterpark with slides and trampolines. All of them have taxi service from the cruise piers for $8–15 round trip, and most offer packages that include food, drinks, and use of facilities for $50–80 per person. Worth every penny for a relaxed beach day.

But I don't want to undersell the cultural side, because Cozumel has real depth beyond the reef and the beach clubs. The island was sacred to the Maya goddess Ixchel (fertility and the moon), and the San Gervasio ruins in the island's interior were an important pilgrimage site. The ruins aren't as dramatic as Tulum or Chichén Itzá on the mainland, but they're peaceful, uncrowded, and genuinely atmospheric — iguanas sunning on ancient stones, jungle pressing in on every side. I've also done the ferry to Playa del Carmen and then the van to Tulum (ship excursion or independent), which is a long day but worth it for those clifftop ruins overlooking the Caribbean. The Cozumel Museum downtown is surprisingly excellent for understanding Maya cosmology and the island's history.

For food, downtown San Miguel has fantastic options beyond the tourist-trap waterfront. I always hit Buccanos at Night for elevated Mexican seafood, La Cocay for upscale fusion, or one of the taco stands in the market for al pastor that costs $2 and changes your life. The chocolate tour at a local cacao farm shows you how the Maya originally prepared drinking chocolate (it's bitter and spicy and nothing like Hershey's), and the tequila tastings at various shops downtown are fun if you don't mind the sales pitch.

Cozumel rewards both relaxation and exploration. I've had perfect days doing nothing but floating in Mr. Sanchos' pool with a bucket of Coronas, and I've had perfect days snorkeling three reefs and touring ruins and eating street food until I couldn't move. The island accommodates both equally well. And that water — that ridiculous, impossibly clear, every-shade-of-blue-at-once water — is why I keep coming back even when I've checked every other box on the list.