Sea Crossing: The Drake Passage is not a destination but the 600-mile ocean crossing between South America and Antarctica. This guide helps you prepare for what many consider the world's roughest seas.
From the Logbook
The captain's announcement came at dinner: "We're entering the Drake. Seas building to 6 meters overnight. Secure loose items." Within hours, the ship was climbing walls of water and sliding down the other side, a rhythm that continued for 36 hours. The dining room emptied. The expedition staff, cheerfully immune, delivered lectures on penguin biology to whoever could stay upright.
On the return crossing, the Drake was glass—barely a ripple, the horizon so flat and endless I could see the curvature of the Earth. A wandering albatross glided past the observation deck, wingspan wider than a car is long, riding the wind without a single flap. That's the Drake's bargain: sometimes a monster, sometimes a mirror, always a teacher of humility.
What is the Drake Passage?
The Drake Passage is the body of water between Cape Horn (South America) and the South Shetland Islands (Antarctica)—approximately 600 miles (1,000 km) of open ocean. It's the narrowest passage connecting the Atlantic, Pacific, and Southern Oceans.
Three factors make it notorious:
- No landmass to break the waves: Currents circle Antarctica unimpeded.
- Convergence of ocean currents: Cold Antarctic water meets warmer northern water.
- Constant westerly winds: The "Furious Fifties" and "Screaming Sixties" latitudes.
Drake Shake vs Drake Lake
Drake Shake
The feared scenario: swells of 6-12 meters (20-40 feet), gale-force winds, and 36+ hours of constant rolling. Ships handle it safely— modern expedition vessels are designed for these conditions—but passengers may not handle it gracefully.
Drake Lake
The hoped-for scenario: calm seas, minimal swell, smooth sailing. This happens more often than the horror stories suggest—perhaps 30-40% of crossings are relatively calm. But there's no predicting which you'll get.
Reality
Most crossings fall somewhere between—moderate swells, some motion, manageable with medication. The Drake rarely kills trips, but it tests them.
Preparation
Seasickness Prevention
- Scopolamine patches: Prescription required. Apply behind ear 8-12 hours before entering the Drake. Most effective for many people.
- Meclizine (Bonine): Over-the-counter, less drowsy than Dramamine.
- Ginger: Candied, capsules, or tea. Helps some people.
- Acupressure bands: Sea-Bands or similar. Mixed effectiveness but no side effects.
Key tip: Start medication BEFORE you feel sick. Once nausea begins, oral medication may not stay down.
Cabin Selection
- Best: Mid-ship, lower deck. Less motion.
- Avoid: Bow cabins (most motion), high decks (more sway).
During the Crossing
- Stay hydrated, even if you don't feel like eating.
- Look at the horizon if possible—helps calibrate your inner ear.
- Fresh air helps; stuffy interior spaces worsen nausea.
- Lie down if standing is difficult. Sleep passes time.
- Avoid alcohol and heavy meals before and during the crossing.
Drake Wildlife
The Drake isn't just an obstacle—it's an ecosystem. If you can stay on deck, you may see:
- Albatrosses: Wandering, black-browed, grey-headed. Largest flying birds, gliding effortlessly alongside the ship.
- Petrels: Cape petrels, giant petrels, storm petrels dancing over waves.
- Whales: Occasional sightings, especially on calmer crossings.
- Antarctic Convergence: The visible line where water temperature drops and wildlife changes. Usually crossed during the passage.
Practical Information
Duration
36-48 hours each way, depending on conditions and ship speed.
What to Pack Accessible
- Seasickness medication
- Water bottle
- Light snacks (crackers, ginger candies)
- Entertainment that doesn't require reading (podcasts, audiobooks)
- Camera with wrist strap (for wildlife if you can venture out)
Ship Activities
Expedition staff run lectures during crossings: wildlife identification, Antarctic history, photography tips. Attendance varies with sea state. The library, bar, and observation lounge remain open.
FAQs
Will I definitely get seasick?
Not necessarily. Many people cross without problems, especially with preventive medication. Those prone to motion sickness should prepare carefully. Even rough crossings are survivable.
Can I fly to Antarctica instead?
Yes—"fly-cruise" options fly from Punta Arenas to King George Island, skipping the Drake. More expensive, less time at sea, and some consider the Drake crossing essential to the Antarctic experience.
Is it dangerous?
Modern expedition ships are designed for these waters. The Drake is uncomfortable, not dangerous. Ships have stabilizers, experienced crews, and conservative navigation practices.
Author's Note: The Drake is the price of Antarctica. Every explorer before you paid it. When you reach the ice, you'll understand why it's worth it.