Icy Strait Point: My Wild Alaska

The ship docks literally in wilderness. The pier is a restored 1930s salmon cannery, and the air smells of salt, spruce, and alder smoke from beach fires. Everything here is owned by the Huna Tlingit — profits go directly to the community.

We did whale watching first thing — within 20 minutes we were surrounded by humpbacks. One breaching male launched completely clear of the water seven times in a row — the guide said she'd never seen anything like it. The sound of 40 tons hitting the water is thunderous. Also saw stellar sea lions, tufted puffins rafting like little footballs, and Dall's porpoise riding our bow wave.

Then the ZipRider — 5,330 ft, 1,300 ft vertical drop, 65 mph terminal velocity. You sit in a harness chair and just... fall. The view over Port Frederick and Icy Strait is insane; I screamed the entire 90 seconds and immediately wanted to do it again.

Lunch was fresh Dungeness crab cracked tableside at the Crab Station and reindeer sausage grilled over alder wood. Sat on the beach eating while ravens tried to steal fries.

Afternoon forest trail walk — boardwalks through old-growth spruce and hemlock, interpretive signs in Tlingit and English, bear scat everywhere (but no bears, thankfully).

The pros: least commercial and most authentic Alaska experience, incredible wildlife, and all profits stay local with the Huna Tlingit community.

The cons: only one or two ships visit per day, so book early.

Practical tips: Do the zip first thing or last — lines get long mid-day.