Tender Port: Ships anchor offshore and tender to the main pier in Vila (the historic town center).
From the Logbook
The island rises from the sea like a green cathedral—83% covered in protected Atlantic Forest, peaks reaching 1,379 meters, and over 360 waterfalls tumbling through the jungle. "Beautiful Island" isn't marketing; it's understatement. Ilhabela feels like the Brazil of imagination: tropical, lush, somehow untamed despite the luxury homes peeking from the hillsides.
At Cachoeira da Toca, the waterfall pounded into a pool cold enough to shock the breath from my lungs. I'd walked thirty minutes through forest humming with unseen creatures to reach it, swatting at the notorious borrachudos (black flies) every step. Worth every bite. The water ran clean and clear, filtered through volcanic rock, and I floated beneath the cascade feeling like the last human in a primordial world.
The Cruise Port
Cruise ships anchor near the town of Vila (São Sebastião channel) and tender passengers to the main pier. The historic center is walkable from the landing, with shops, restaurants, and tour operators nearby.
Ilhabela is an island; the mainland ferry port (São Sebastião) is on the continent. Ships anchor on the island side, so no ferry is needed for cruise visitors.
What to Do
Beaches
- Praia do Curral: Most developed, beach clubs, water sports. South coast, about 10km from town.
- Praia Grande: Long sandy beach, accessible, family-friendly.
- Praia do Bonete: Remote paradise—boat or long hike only. For adventurous full-day commitment.
- Praia de Castelhanos: East coast, dramatic, requires 4x4 or boat. Wild and stunning.
Waterfalls
- Cachoeira da Toca: Most accessible, 30-minute forest hike. Swimming pool below falls.
- Cachoeira dos Três Tombos: Three-tiered falls, moderate hike.
- Água Branca: Easy access near town.
Historic Vila
The town center has colonial-era buildings, white church, and pleasant waterfront. Walking the cobblestones reveals boutiques, ice cream shops, and laid-back Brazilian atmosphere.
Sailing
Ilhabela is Brazil's sailing capital, hosting major regattas. Charter boats available for day sailing.
Practical Information
The Borrachudos
Fair warning: Ilhabela's black flies (borrachudos) are legendary. They're worst in shady, humid areas (hiking trails, waterfall areas). Bring strong repellent with DEET. Beaches typically have fewer. Locals say "welcome to Ilhabela—the flies included."
Money
Brazilian Real (BRL). Cards accepted at restaurants/shops; cash for taxis and beach vendors.
Getting Around
Taxis or excursion vans for distant beaches. The island is hilly with winding roads. Walking limited to Vila area.
Weather
Tropical humid. Rain possible year-round (it fuels those 360+ waterfalls). Summer (Dec-Mar) warmest and wettest.
Port Map
FAQs
Are the black flies really that bad?
Yes, in forested areas. Beaches are better. Bring strong repellent. Cover exposed skin on hikes. It's worth enduring for the waterfalls.
Which beach is best for cruise visitors?
Praia do Curral offers facilities and accessibility (30-minute drive). For closer options, Praia Grande works. Remote beaches require full-day commitment.
How does Ilhabela compare to Búzios?
Ilhabela is more nature-focused (forest, waterfalls), less glamorous, more laid-back. Búzios is more beach-resort chic with shopping and nightlife.
Author's Note: Ilhabela rewards nature lovers. Bring insect repellent, water shoes, and adventurous spirit.