Kirkwall: My 5,000-Year Journey

We walked off into a town built by Vikings – St. Magnus Cathedral glowing red sandstone, founded 1137 and still perfect. Ten minutes by bus to Skara Brae – a 5,000-year-old village uncovered by a storm in 1850, complete with stone dressers, beds, and hearths. Walking through houses older than Stonehenge while Atlantic waves crashed behind felt like time travel.

The Ring of Brodgar at noon – 27 standing stones in a perfect circle on a windswept isthmus between two lochs, older than anything we know why. We had lunch at the Standing Stones Hotel – Orkney crab sandwiches and Highland Park 12-year whisky that tastes like peat smoke and honey. The pros: history density that blows the mind. The cons: wind (always wind), but it makes the stones feel alive.

The Moment That Stays With Me: Standing alone inside the 5,000-year-old Tomb of the Eagles while Atlantic gales howled outside and realising people were burying their dead here when Egypt was still building mud-brick villages.

Getting Around Kirkwall

Ship docks 10-minute walk from town. Excursions or taxis for archaeological sites.

Positively Worded Word of Warning

Orkney wind is legendary – a warm hat and windproof jacket make the ancient sites even more atmospheric.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: Is Kirkwall worth it?
A: The most concentrated history in Europe.

Q: Best thing?
A: Skara Brae + Ring of Brodgar.

Q: How long for main sites?
A: 5–6 hours perfect.

Q: Walk from port?
A: Yes to town; sites need transport.