Photo: Wikimedia Commons
Last reviewed: January 2026
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My Logbook: Where Ancient History Meets Living Chaos
Naples announced itself before I even stepped off the ship—the chaotic energy visible from the deck as Vesuvius loomed over the bay, that infamous volcano still smoking faintly after nearly two thousand years since it buried Pompeii in ash. I'd read warnings about Naples: too crowded, too chaotic, too dangerous for independent exploration. But I'd also read that nowhere on earth offers what Naples offers—the world's greatest archaeological treasures, the birthplace of pizza, a city that has been continuously inhabited for nearly three millennia, and a people whose passion for life borders on the operatic. The warnings, I discovered, were both accurate and incomplete. Naples is challenging. Naples is also extraordinary.
My first time, I chose the ship excursion to Pompeii—the right decision for a first visit. The bus wound through Naples' outskirts, past apartment blocks hung with laundry and graffiti murals covering every available surface, until we reached the ancient city that time forgot for seventeen centuries. However, nothing prepares you for walking streets where Romans walked, entering homes where families lived and died in a single afternoon in AD 79. I stood in the forum where merchants haggled and politicians debated, walked down Pompeii's main street with its stone ruts worn by chariot wheels, saw the plaster casts of bodies frozen in their final moments. The scale overwhelmed me—this wasn't a few ruins scattered in a field, but an entire city preserved in volcanic ash, with houses, shops, temples, brothels, and baths stretching in every direction. Our guide knew exactly where to lead us through the sprawling site, which buildings offered the best frescoes, which streets avoided the worst crowds.
My second visit, I made different choices. I stayed in Naples itself, walking from the port through the historic center that UNESCO designated a World Heritage Site. The Spanish Quarter's narrow alleys rose steeply from the waterfront, laundry strung between buildings filtering the Mediterranean light, scooters weaving between pedestrians with what seemed like inches to spare. I found myself at the National Archaeological Museum, which houses the world's finest collection of artifacts from Pompeii and Herculaneum—the mosaics too fragile to leave at the excavation sites, the bronzes and jewelry and everyday objects that bring ancient Roman life into focus. The Alexander Mosaic alone, depicting Alexander the Great battling Darius III, justified the entire morning. Yet the museum's crowded galleries and enthusiastic school groups reminded me that Naples never lets you forget you're in a living city, not a silent museum.
I ate pizza at Da Michele, perhaps the world's most famous pizzeria—the one featured in "Eat Pray Love" where Julia Roberts achieved her pizza epiphany. The menu offers exactly two options: marinara (tomato, garlic, oregano, olive oil) and margherita (tomato, mozzarella, basil). I ordered both. The scent of wood smoke and blistering cheese filled the tiny dining room. The crust arrived charred in spots, chewy and yielding, the taste of San Marzano tomatoes grown in Vesuvius's volcanic soil and buffalo mozzarella from nearby Campania farms bursting with sweetness and richness. Though the line stretched down the street, it moved quickly—Neapolitans don't linger over pizza; they consume it hot and fast, standing at counters or perched on the curb outside. A margherita cost €5. I understood immediately why pizza everywhere else seems like a pale imitation.
The Amalfi Coast tempted me on a later cruise—that legendary stretch of road carved into cliffs above the Tyrrhenian Sea, connecting villages that seem to defy gravity. Yet the journey from Naples takes nearly two hours each way, and the winding roads challenge even iron stomachs. I opted instead for Herculaneum, Pompeii's smaller but better-preserved neighbor, destroyed by the same eruption but buried in mud rather than ash. The mud preserved wooden furniture, food, and even human expressions with haunting clarity. Although Pompeii impresses with scale, Herculaneum impresses with intimacy—you can imagine actually living in these houses, cooking in these kitchens, walking these streets.
Naples demands patience and rewards it with experiences unavailable anywhere else on earth. The city is loud, dirty in places, and can feel overwhelming—but it's also authentic in ways that sanitized tourist destinations can never match. Neapolitans have been living here for 2,800 years, and they're not about to change their ways for cruise passengers who arrive in the morning and leave by dinner. Yet if you meet Naples on its own terms, eat the pizza, wander the back streets, absorb the chaos as character rather than flaw, you'll discover why this gritty metropolis has inspired artists and writers for centuries. The combination of ancient history, living culture, and culinary excellence creates something unique in the Mediterranean cruise experience.
I've been back three times now, and each visit reveals new layers. The underground Naples tour through ancient Greek and Roman tunnels beneath the modern city. The Capodimonte Museum with its Caravaggios and Titians. The waterfront promenade at sunset when all of Naples seems to be taking the passeggiata. Despite its reputation for difficulty, Naples has become one of my favorite Mediterranean ports—perhaps because it demands more from visitors and gives more in return.
The Cruise Port
Cruise ships dock at the Stazione Marittima, Naples' cruise terminal located directly on the waterfront at the foot of the historic center. The terminal sits within walking distance of major attractions—the Archaeological Museum is roughly 1.5 kilometers, the Spanish Quarter even closer. However, most visitors use Naples as a launching point for Pompeii, Herculaneum, the Amalfi Coast, or Mount Vesuvius rather than exploring the city itself.
The port area can feel chaotic, with taxi drivers, tour operators, and locals all competing for attention as you exit the terminal. Legitimate taxi stands with fixed rates to major destinations exist, though negotiating skills help. The Circumvesuviana train station (for Pompeii and Herculaneum) is about a 15-minute walk or short taxi ride from the cruise terminal. Multiple ships often dock simultaneously, making morning departure from the port area congested during peak season.
Getting Around
- Walking: The historic center, Spanish Quarter, and waterfront are all walkable from the cruise terminal. Naples' narrow streets and aggressive scooter traffic require constant awareness. The Archaeological Museum is a 20-25 minute walk through interesting neighborhoods—doable for confident urban walkers, taxi-worthy for others.
- Circumvesuviana Train ($3-5): Regional trains connect Naples to Pompeii (Pompei Scavi station, 35 minutes, €3.60) and Herculaneum (Ercolano Scavi station, 20 minutes, €2.60). Trains depart every 20-30 minutes. The station is walkable from the port or a short taxi ride. Simple, economical, and efficient for independent explorers.
- Taxis ($15-100): Metered taxis are available but agree on fixed rates for longer trips. Expect €15-20 to the Archaeological Museum, €50-70 for round-trip to Pompeii with waiting time, €100+ for Amalfi Coast day trips. Use official taxi stands rather than accepting rides from solicitors in the port area.
- Ship Excursions ($80-200): The most stress-free option for first-time visitors. Pompeii excursions ($80-120) include transport, entrance fees, and guides. Amalfi Coast excursions ($150-200) handle the challenging driving logistics. The ship-waits guarantee provides peace of mind for distant destinations.
- Accessibility: Naples presents significant challenges for wheelchair users and those with mobility limitations. Pompeii's ancient streets are uneven stone with limited accessible paths. The Archaeological Museum has elevator access but crowded galleries. The Amalfi Coast involves significant walking on steep, uneven terrain. The Spanish Quarter features steep stairs and narrow passages. Ship excursions sometimes offer accessible alternatives with advance notice—confirm specific accommodations before booking.
Naples Area Map
Interactive map showing cruise terminal, historic center, Pompeii and Herculaneum archaeological sites, and Mount Vesuvius. The Amalfi Coast lies further south (not shown at this zoom level).
Top Excursions & Things to Do
Booking guidance: Pompeii requires advance tickets during peak season—book at ticketone.it. Ship excursions handle logistics but cost more than independent visits. The Amalfi Coast journey is long; only attempt independently if comfortable with Italian driving conditions.
Pompeii Archaeological Site ($20-40)
ESSENTIAL for first-time visitors. The ancient Roman city preserved by Vesuvius's AD 79 eruption covers 170 acres of streets, homes, temples, and public buildings. Highlights include the Forum, House of the Faun with its famous mosaics, the brothel with its explicit frescoes, the amphitheater, and the Garden of the Fugitives with plaster casts of victims. Book timed-entry tickets at ticketone.it during peak season. Allow 3-4 hours minimum; serious archaeology enthusiasts could spend all day. Bring water—shade is limited and summer heat intense.
Herculaneum ($15-25)
Pompeii's smaller neighbor offers better preservation and fewer crowds. The volcanic mud that buried Herculaneum preserved wooden furniture, food, and building materials that ash couldn't protect at Pompeii. The site is more compact (can be explored in 2 hours), easier to navigate, and often less crowded. Ideal for visitors who've already seen Pompeii or prefer intimate exploration over epic scale. Circumvesuviana train to Ercolano Scavi station.
Mount Vesuvius Crater Hike ($15-30)
Climb to the rim of Europe's most famous volcano for crater views and panoramic vistas of the Bay of Naples. Buses run from Pompeii or Naples to the crater parking area; from there, a 20-30 minute hike reaches the summit. The path is steep and can be slippery—proper footwear essential. Combine with Pompeii for a full archaeological-geological day. Not recommended in extreme heat or for those with mobility limitations.
National Archaeological Museum ($15-20)
Houses the world's finest collection of Roman artifacts, including treasures too fragile to remain at Pompeii and Herculaneum. The Alexander Mosaic, Farnese Bull, Secret Cabinet of erotic art, and countless everyday objects bring ancient life into vivid focus. Located in Naples' historic center, walkable from the port for confident urban explorers. Allow 2-3 hours for highlights; art lovers could spend all day.
Amalfi Coast Day Trip ($100-200)
The legendary coastal road connects Positano, Amalfi, and Ravello—villages clinging to cliffs above impossibly blue water. However, the journey from Naples takes 90-120 minutes each way on winding roads. Ship excursions handle the challenging driving and provide photo stops. Independent visits require renting cars, hiring drivers, or navigating ferry schedules. Expect motion sickness on the curves. Beautiful but exhausting for a single port day.
Naples Pizza Walking Tour ($40-60)
Guided tours of Naples' legendary pizzerias introduce visitors to the city's culinary heart. Visit historic establishments like Da Michele, Sorbillo, or Di Matteo. Learn the difference between marinara and margherita, why Naples pizza is protected by law, and why the volcanic soil matters. A delicious alternative to archaeological overload, and a memorable way to experience authentic Neapolitan culture.
Depth Soundings
Practical details and honest assessments for planning your Naples day.
- Choice paralysis is real: Pompeii OR Herculaneum OR Amalfi OR Naples itself—don't try to combine too much. Each destination deserves focused attention. Most first-timers should choose Pompeii; return visitors might explore Herculaneum or Naples' museums.
- Pompeii exhaustion: The site is massive, often hot, and offers limited shade. Bring water, wear comfortable shoes, and don't underestimate the physical demands. A guided tour helps maximize limited time and energy.
- Naples safety reality: The city's reputation for petty crime is somewhat outdated but not entirely unfounded. Keep valuables secure, avoid displaying expensive jewelry, and stay aware of surroundings in crowded areas. The historic center is generally safe for tourists during daylight.
- Circumvesuviana train tips: Trains can be crowded, hot, and occasionally delayed. Buy round-trip tickets to save time. Watch belongings carefully on crowded trains. The journey is fine for adventurous travelers but adds stress compared to organized transport.
- Amalfi Coast reality check: The drive is genuinely long and winding. Motion sickness is common. The villages are beautiful but crowded during cruise season. If you have only one day, Pompeii offers more unique value—the Amalfi Coast resembles other Mediterranean coastal scenery, while Pompeii exists nowhere else on earth.
- Pizza priorities: Even if you're rushing to Pompeii, budget 30 minutes for authentic Neapolitan pizza. This is where pizza was invented; eating it here provides context impossible to replicate elsewhere.
Frequently Asked Questions
Should I choose Pompeii or the Amalfi Coast?
Pompeii for first-time visitors—nothing else like it exists on earth. The Amalfi Coast is beautiful but resembles other Mediterranean coastlines, while Pompeii offers a unique archaeological experience impossible to replicate. Save the Amalfi Coast for a future trip or a day when you have more time.
Can I visit Pompeii independently via train?
Yes. The Circumvesuviana train runs regularly from Naples to Pompei Scavi station (35 minutes, €3.60). From there, the site entrance is a short walk. Buy tickets in advance during peak season. Budget 3-4 hours at the site plus transit time.
Is Naples safe for cruise passengers?
Generally yes, with normal urban precautions. Keep valuables secure, don't display expensive jewelry, stay aware in crowded areas. The tourist center is well-patrolled during daylight. Organized excursions eliminate most safety concerns for nervous travelers.
What's the difference between Pompeii and Herculaneum?
Pompeii is larger (170 acres vs. 12) with more variety—forums, temples, amphitheater, streets. Herculaneum is better preserved, with intact wooden furniture and two-story buildings. First-timers should choose Pompeii; archaeology enthusiasts or return visitors often prefer Herculaneum's intimacy.
Where should I eat pizza in Naples?
Da Michele (the "Eat Pray Love" pizzeria) serves only marinara and margherita—expect lines but quick service. Sorbillo offers more variety and excellent quality. Di Matteo serves famous fried pizza. Any will provide an authentic experience. Budget €5-10 per pizza.
