Quebec City: My French-Canadian Fairytale

We tied up right below the old city, so close that we could look straight up at the Château Frontenac from the lower town funicular. The second we stepped off the ship the air smelled like wood smoke and maple — fall in Quebec City hits different. We took the funicular up to Dufferin Terrace and spent the whole morning just wandering the old walled city like kids in a storybook.

Petit-Champlain is stupidly cute — cobblestone streets, murals, street musicians playing accordion, shop windows full of ice wine and wool sweaters. We ducked into Au Petit Coin Breton for crepes that were still bubbling when they hit the table — ham, cheese, egg, perfectly crisp edges. Then we walked the fortifications at a leisurely pace, stopping every few minutes because another vista of the St. Lawrence turning gold with autumn leaves demanded a photo.

Afternoon was the Plains of Abraham — now a massive park with buskers and people throwing frisbees — but you can still feel the history of the 1759 battle that changed everything. Ended with a self-guided food crawl: poutine at Chez Ashton (gravy so good it should be illegal), tourtière meat pie at Cochon Dingue, and a beaver tail pastry dripping in cinnamon sugar while watching the sun set behind the château.

The pros: feels like you've portaled to France without the jet lag, incredibly walkable, and locals are genuinely warm once you try a little French.

The cons: hills and cobblestones will destroy your calves and your shoes.

Practical tips: Wear real walking shoes, not cute ones. Download an offline map — cell service can be spotty in the stone alleys. Say "bonjour" first — it unlocks smiles everywhere.