Sitka: My Most Beautiful Alaska Town

We tendered in and the very first thing I saw was a raft of 40+ sea otters floating on their backs right in front of the ship, cracking clams on their chests like furry little businessmen eating lunch. Sitka is heartbreakingly pretty — snow-capped volcanoes across the sound, Russian church spires, bald eagles perched on literally every lamppost.

We started at Sitka National Historical Park — the totem trail winds through temperate rainforest with poles standing like silent storytellers among spruce and salmonberry bushes. The visitor center film about the 1804 Battle of Sitka and Tlingit resilience made me tear up. Then the Alaska Raptor Center — watching a bald eagle with a 7-ft wingspan spread its wings three feet from my face (behind glass) was humbling.

Fortress of the Bear was next — rescued coastal brown bears in a huge natural enclosure. An 800-lb male named Killisnoo stood on his hind legs and roared — sound I'll never forget. Afternoon whale watching was pure magic: we found humpbacks bubble-net feeding in a coordinated group of 12. The guide cut the engine and we drifted while they rose around us in a perfect circle, mouths open like living parachutes, water streaming off their baleen. Also saw transient orcas hunting seals and stellar sea lions hauled out by the hundreds.

Dinner was halibut Olympia at the Channel Club — baked with mayo, parmesan, and onions — sinful and perfect.

The pros: the most beautiful setting, richest blend of Russian and Tlingit culture, and best wildlife variety in Alaska.

The cons: it's a tender port with limited time since most ships only stay 6–8 hours.

Practical tips: Book the whale and raptor combo tours for best value. Bring binoculars.