Tangier: My African Gateway

We walked off and straight into the Grand Socco – palm trees, women in colorful djellabas, the call to prayer echoing. A local guide led us into the medina labyrinth – narrower than Marrakech, more European-flavored, easier to navigate. We bought saffron that smelled like sunshine and argan oil still warm from the cooperative. We stopped at Café Hafa for mint tea overlooking the Strait – waves crashing, Spain visible 14 km away, old men playing chess.

We had lunch at a tiny place the guide knew – lamb tanjia slow-cooked in clay pots for 24 hours, bread still hot from the communal oven. In the afternoon we visited Cap Spartel where the Mediterranean meets the Atlantic – waves exploding on rocks, camels posing for photos. The pros: authentic Moroccan chaos with European polish. The cons: persistent touts, but a firm "la shukran" works wonders.