Messina: My Gateway to Taormina's Magic

We ignored Messina itself (honestly, it's fine but you come for Taormina) and were on the first bus up the switchbacks in 50 minutes. The theater appears suddenly – 2,300-year-old Greek stones framing the perfect cone of Mount Etna smoking in the distance. We sat in the top row and just stared, dumbstruck. The view is one of the most famous in the world for good reason.

Corso Umberto at 10 a.m. was quiet enough to enjoy – pastel buildings, ceramic shops, and the smell of fresh cannoli wafting everywhere. We had lunch at Bam Bar – granita with brioche that tastes like summer concentrated, and the best cannoli of my life (pistachio filling still warm). In the afternoon we went to Isola Bella below – pebble beach, crystal water, and the cable car ride down is pure joy.