Photo: Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA)
Last reviewed: February 2026
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My Logbook: Perfume Island and the Lemurs of Lokobe
I stepped off the tender onto the weathered concrete pier at Crater Port and the scent reached me before my feet were steady — a thick, sweet, almost narcotic fragrance drifting from the ylang-ylang trees that blanket this volcanic island off Madagascar's northwest coast. The air felt warm and heavy, rich with moisture and flowers and something unmistakably wild. My shoes found the cracked pavement, and I looked up to see a row of battered taxis and a cluster of guides holding cardboard signs scrawled with ship names. This was not a polished Caribbean pier with duty-free shops and frozen cocktails. This was Madagascar, raw and unfiltered, and I felt my pulse quicken with the kind of nervous excitement that only arrives when you know you are genuinely far from home.
Nosy Be translates to "Big Island" in Malagasy, though at roughly 120 square miles it is not particularly large. What it lacks in size, however, it compensates with staggering variety. My guide for the day, a soft-spoken Sakalava man named Faly, met me at the pier entrance and gestured toward a dusty Toyota. We would see lemurs in the rainforest, he promised, and snorkel a reef where sea turtles outnumber people, and walk through a working ylang-ylang distillery where the flowers of Perfume Island become oils destined for Parisian perfume houses. I climbed in, and we rattled south along a laterite road the color of cinnamon.
Our first stop was Lokobe National Park, the last intact lowland rainforest on the island. The entrance felt modest — a wooden sign, a ranger station, a cluster of pirogues beached along a mangrove shore. But the moment we stepped beneath the canopy, everything changed. The light dropped to a green twilight. The sound shifted from wind and waves to birdsong and the rustle of unseen creatures high above. The trail was soft underfoot, thick with leaf litter that smelled of damp earth and decay and life all braided together. Faly stopped suddenly and pointed upward. There, on a branch no more than ten feet above my head, a black lemur watched me with orange eyes the size of marbles. She was small — maybe the size of a house cat — with a face so expressive it felt almost human. I watched her watch me, neither of us moving, and I thought: this animal exists nowhere else on earth. Madagascar separated from mainland Africa 165 million years ago, and the isolation produced creatures that belong to no other place. Ninety percent of the wildlife here is endemic. That black lemur was looking at me from a branch of the oldest evolutionary experiment on the planet.
We saw more lemurs deeper in the forest — a family of four grooming each other on a horizontal trunk, and then, in a hollow tree that Faly illuminated with his phone flashlight, a mouse lemur the size of my fist, blinking at us with enormous brown eyes before vanishing into the dark. I heard the cry of a Coua bird echoing through the canopy, a haunting two-note whistle that lingered in the damp air. Chameleons clung to branches — one changed from green to amber as I watched, a slow-motion magic trick performed for an audience of one. The forest was alive in a way I had never experienced, every surface hosting something that crawled or climbed or called. Yet despite the wildness, I felt a profound quiet here. The canopy filtered out the world. My phone had no signal. For two hours, there was nothing but this green cathedral and the creatures who called it home.
After Lokobe, we drove to a ylang-ylang distillery near the village of Dzamandzar. The plantation sprawled across a hillside — rows of slender trees with bright yellow, star-shaped flowers hanging in clusters from every branch. The fragrance was overwhelming, almost dizzying — sweet and floral with an undertone of jasmine. Workers harvested the blossoms by hand at dawn, Faly explained, because the essential oil content peaks before the tropical sun grows too strong. Inside the distillery, copper stills heated by wood fires distilled the flowers into a golden oil that smelled like concentrated paradise. The owner, a fourth-generation distiller, let me hold a small vial of pure ylang-ylang oil — just one ounce, he said, required roughly forty pounds of fresh blossoms. I thought about the Chanel No. 5 advertisements I had seen my whole life and realized that some portion of that famous fragrance began right here, on this hillside, picked by these hands. I purchased a small bottle of oil for $15 — a fraction of what it would cost in any Western shop.
The afternoon belonged to the sea. A short boat ride brought us to Nosy Tanikely, a tiny uninhabited island ringed by coral reef and protected as a marine reserve. The water was so clear I could see the sandy bottom from the boat — white sand, dark coral heads, and the unmistakable shape of a sea turtle gliding through the shallows. I slid off the side with my mask and snorkel, and the cold shock of the water gave way within seconds to warmth. The reef was a living tapestry — brain coral, staghorn coral, soft purple fans swaying in the current, and fish in colors I could not name: electric blue, vivid orange, stripes of black and gold. A hawksbill turtle passed within arm's reach, utterly unbothered by my presence. I floated there, face down, breathing through the snorkel, watching this underwater world go about its ancient business, and felt the kind of wonder that makes you forget you are a tourist with a return ticket.
The walk back to the pier took me through narrow streets where the scent of vanilla and woodsmoke mixed in the warm evening air. Vendors offered vanilla beans — plump, dark, glistening with oil — for $1 or $2 each, a fraction of the $8 or $10 they cost at home. Children waved from doorways. A rooster crossed my path. The buildings were worn and sun-bleached, yet alive with color — turquoise shutters, orange bougainvillea, a faded mural of a lemur on a crumbling wall. This was not a curated port experience. It was real, and it was beautiful precisely because it was imperfect.
Looking back, I realize Nosy Be taught me something I had been slow to learn across many voyages: the most valuable port days are not the ones where everything runs smoothly. They are the ones where the world cracks open just enough to show you something you were not expecting — a lemur's gaze, a grandmother's prayer, the scent of forty pounds of flowers distilled into a single golden ounce. Sometimes you plan for adventure and discover awe instead. I learned that the gift of travel is not the destination itself, but the willingness to be changed by what you find there.
The Cruise Port
What you need to know before you dock.
Nosy Be's Crater Port sits in the town of Andoany (formerly known by its French colonial name), serving as Madagascar's primary cruise gateway in the northwest. The port facilities are basic compared to Caribbean terminals — no covered walkways, limited shade, and a single concrete pier. Larger ships anchor offshore and tender passengers to the pier, which adds 20-30 minutes each way. Tour operators and taxi drivers gather at the pier exit, making it easy to arrange transport on arrival. The town center of Andoany is roughly 1 km from the pier, walkable in 10-15 minutes along a paved road. Wheelchair users and those with mobility challenges should note that sidewalks are uneven and unpaved in many areas; the pier itself is accessible but the town streets can be difficult for wheels.
- Terminal: Crater Port (Andoany) — basic facilities with no terminal building; vendors and guides at pier exit
- Distance to Town: Andoany downtown 1 km from pier (walkable 10-15 min); taxis and tour operators meet ships
- Tender: Larger ships anchor and tender; smaller ships may dock directly depending on traffic
- Currency: Malagasy Ariary (MGA); Euros more widely accepted than USD; ATMs limited and frequently empty — bring cash
- Language: Malagasy and French (official); minimal English outside tourist areas; basic French very helpful
- Driving: Right side (French style); roads variable quality outside Andoany
- Best Season: April-November (dry season); December-March rainy/cyclone season; water warm year-round
Getting Around
- Walking: Andoany downtown is walkable from the port (1 km, 10-15 min along a paved road). The compact town center has shops, eateries, and the sacred banyan tree within easy reach on foot. Sidewalks are variable quality and often unpaved, so sturdy footwear is recommended. Wheelchair users will find the terrain challenging beyond the main road.
- Taxis: Available at the port exit. No meters — always negotiate the fare before departure. Expect roughly 20,000-30,000 MGA ($5-7 USD) for short trips within Andoany; 80,000-100,000 MGA ($20-25 USD) for a half-day hire to Lokobe or the plantations. Confirm whether the price is quoted in Ariary or Euros before agreeing. Most vehicles are older but functional.
- Tuk-Tuks: Three-wheeled motorized taxis available in Andoany and surrounding villages. Cheaper than cars, enjoyable for short distances, and a uniquely Malagasy experience. Negotiate the price before climbing aboard — roughly 10,000-15,000 MGA ($2-4 USD) for short hops around town.
- Organized Tours: Highly recommended for Lokobe, marine reserves, and distillery visits. Book ahead through the ship excursion desk or through reputable local operators who meet ships at the pier. Most tours include transport, guide, entrance fees, and equipment where needed. A ship excursion guarantees return to the vessel, which provides peace of mind for distant destinations.
- Scooter and Car Rental: Available in Andoany at roughly $15-30 per day for a scooter, $40-60 per day for a car. Roads outside the main town are unpaved and variable quality — potholes, wandering zebu cattle, and minimal signage. International license required. Independent travelers should allow extra time for the conditions.
- Boat Transfers: Essential for island hopping to Nosy Tanikely, Nosy Komba, and other satellite islands. Included in organized tours or available independently by hiring a pirogue with captain for roughly $30-50 USD for a half-day. Confirm life jacket availability before boarding.
Nosy Be, Madagascar Area Map
Interactive map showing cruise terminal, Andoany, Lokobe Reserve, Nosy Tanikely Marine Reserve, Mont Passot, and nearby islands. Click any marker for details and directions.
Excursions & Activities
Booking guidance: Ship excursion options offer guaranteed return to the vessel but cost more. Independent bookings are cheaper but carry risk of missing all-aboard if transportation delays occur. For distant destinations like Lokobe or Nosy Komba, book ahead through the ship or a reputable local operator.
Nosy Tanikely Marine Reserve
Pristine coral reef surrounding a tiny uninhabited island — Madagascar's premier snorkeling destination. Crystal-clear water, abundant tropical fish, sea turtles, vibrant corals. Protected marine park with ranger station, 20-minute boat ride from Nosy Be. Snorkel equipment usually provided by tour operators. Shallow reef areas accessible to beginners with low walking or swimming effort required. White sand beach for relaxing between snorkel sessions. Half-day excursion approximately $40-60 USD. Underwater visibility is exceptional. Essential for water lovers. Wheelchair users should note that beach access involves stepping from a boat onto sand.
Lokobe National Park
Nosy Be's only strict nature reserve — pristine lowland rainforest sheltering endemic wildlife found nowhere else on earth. Black lemurs (diurnal, often seen in family groups), Nosy Be sportive lemur (critically endangered, nocturnal), mouse lemurs, chameleons, leaf-tailed geckos, rare birds. Guided hikes required with park rangers who protect the habitat. Located 30 minutes from Andoany by road. Entry approximately $25-35 USD plus guide fee. Moderate walking on uneven forest trails. Lush jungle paths, medicinal plant demonstrations, and a Sakalava village visit round out the experience. Bring strong insect repellent. Half-day excursion. Madagascar's evolutionary isolation on full display.
Ylang-Ylang Distillery Tour
Visit working plantations and distilleries producing essential oils for the luxury perfume industry. See flowers harvested at dawn, witness the steam distillation process, and smell the concentrated oils. Tours available through ship excursion desks or local operators for roughly $30-40 USD for a half-day. Peak flowering season runs May through August, but plantations operate year-round. Some distilleries also produce vanilla, black pepper, and cinnamon oils. Purchase pure essential oils at source prices — a small bottle costs $10-20 here versus $50 or more abroad. The experience explains why they call this Perfume Island.
Mahatsinjo Sacred Banyan Tree
Centuries-old sacred tree in the center of Andoany — massive canopy, aerial roots, deep spiritual significance to Sakalava people. Locals tie colorful fabrics to branches, leave offerings of honey and rice, make wishes. Visitors welcome to participate respectfully. Free admission (small donation appreciated). A cultural and contemplative experience. Five-minute walk from the port. The tree creates a natural cathedral — peaceful, profound, deeply Malagasy. Combine with an Andoany town walk.
Mont Passot Sunset Viewpoint
Highest point on Nosy Be (329 meters) offering panoramic 360-degree views across the island, surrounding smaller islands, and sacred crater lakes. Sunset vista is particularly spectacular. Roughly 30 minutes from Andoany by taxi or tour. Free access. Sacred lakes below are believed inhabited by ancestral spirits and crocodiles (swimming forbidden). Bring your camera. If the ship stays late, sunset here is unforgettable. Clear days reveal mainland Madagascar 15 km away. Taxi cost roughly $20-30 USD round trip.
Nosy Komba (Lemur Island)
Small volcanic island near Nosy Be famous for semi-tame black lemurs habituated to visitors. A 20-minute boat ride brings you to Ampangorina village where lemurs approach for banana offerings provided by guides. Also features Sakalava artisans selling embroidered tablecloths, vanilla, spices, and woodcarvings. More touristy than Lokobe but easier lemur encounters and suitable for families. Half-day excursion approximately $35-50 USD. Children especially enjoy this. Lemurs are gentle but still wild — follow guide instructions. Accessible for those with moderate mobility who can manage boarding a small boat and walking on a sandy path.
Depth Soundings: Final Thoughts
These notes are soundings in another's wake — gathered from travelers I trust, charts I have studied, and the most reliable accounts I can find. When I drop anchor here myself, I will return to correct my course.
Nosy Be rewards the curious traveler willing to embrace imperfection. The infrastructure is basic, the roads are rough, the ATMs unreliable. However, what you gain in return is access to one of the most biologically unique places on earth — a volcanic island draped in ylang-ylang blossoms where lemurs found nowhere else leap through ancient rainforest, where sea turtles glide through pristine coral gardens, and where centuries-old spiritual practice continues beneath a sacred banyan tree.
Bring cash in Euros. Book your Lokobe and snorkeling excursions in advance. Learn three French phrases: "Bonjour," "Merci," and "Combien?" Try the Malagasy "Salama" for greeting locals. Purchase vanilla beans at the Andoany stalls ($1-2 each versus $8-10 at home) and ylang-ylang oil at source prices. Wear reef-safe sunscreen and strong insect repellent. Drink only bottled water. Respect sacred sites. And keep your eyes open, because Madagascar does not announce its wonders — it simply offers them to anyone paying attention.
Photo Gallery
Image Credits
- Hero photograph: Wikimedia Commons contributors (CC BY-SA)
- Lemur photograph: Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA)
- Ylang-ylang photograph: Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA)
- Snorkeling photograph: Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA)
- Gallery photographs: Various Wikimedia Commons contributors (CC BY-SA)
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Where do cruise ships dock in Nosy Be?
A: Crater Port in the town of Andoany. The port has basic facilities with no terminal building. Andoany downtown is a 1 km walk (10-15 minutes) or a short taxi ride. Tour operators meet ships at the pier. Larger vessels anchor offshore and tender passengers to the dock.
Q: Why is Nosy Be called Perfume Island?
A: Extensive ylang-ylang plantations produce essential oils used in luxury perfumes worldwide. The fragrant yellow flowers bloom year-round, scenting the island air. Nosy Be also produces vanilla, patchouli, and other aromatic crops that contribute to its famous fragrance.
Q: Can I see lemurs in Nosy Be?
A: Yes. Lokobe National Park shelters black lemurs, critically endangered Nosy Be sportive lemurs, and nocturnal mouse lemurs — all endemic species found nowhere else. Nosy Komba (a nearby island) offers easier encounters with habituated black lemurs. Both require guided tours and cost $25-50 USD.
Q: Is snorkeling good in Nosy Be?
A: Excellent. Nosy Tanikely Marine Reserve features pristine coral reefs, crystal-clear water, abundant tropical fish, and frequent sea turtle sightings. Water visibility often exceeds 30 meters. Considered one of the Indian Ocean's finest snorkeling spots, with tours running $40-60 USD for a half-day.
Q: What currency should I bring?
A: Bring Euros in cash (most widely accepted foreign currency). Malagasy Ariary (MGA) is the official currency. USD is less commonly accepted. ATMs in Andoany are unreliable and frequently empty. Credit cards are rarely accepted outside resorts. Cash is essential for a smooth visit.
Q: Is Nosy Be accessible for visitors with mobility challenges?
A: The port pier itself is accessible, but much of Andoany has uneven sidewalks and unpaved roads. Wheelchair users will find the terrain difficult beyond the main paved road. Lokobe trails require moderate fitness on uneven ground. Nosy Tanikely involves boarding and disembarking small boats. Beach clubs and boat operators can sometimes accommodate mobility needs with advance notice.
Q: What is the best time of year to visit?
A: April through November offers the best weather with dry conditions, comfortable temperatures, and optimal snorkeling visibility. December through March brings heavy rains and cyclone risk. Water temperatures remain warm year-round.
Q: Will rain disrupt my port day?
A: During dry season (April-November), rain is uncommon. During transitional months, brief showers are possible but rarely last long enough to significantly affect plans. During wet season (December-March), heavy rainfall can cancel excursions and make roads impassable. Check the forecast before your visit.