Photo: Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA)
Last reviewed: February 2026
Weather & Best Time to Visit
My Logbook: Where the Desert Meets the Deep Blue
I watched the tender pull away from our ship and felt my heart quicken. The jagged peaks of the Sinai Mountains rose behind us like ancient sentinels, their rust-colored faces catching the first golden rays of morning light. Ahead, the marina of Sharm el Maya glittered against impossibly blue water — that particular shade of turquoise that I have only ever seen in the Red Sea. The warm desert breeze carried the faint scent of salt and sand, and I could hear the gentle slap of small waves against our boat as we crossed the bay. I watched the barren landscape give way to pristine coastline, and something shifted inside me. This was not just another port day. This felt like arriving somewhere that had been waiting for us.
My wife squeezed my hand as we stepped ashore. The warmth hit us immediately — even in February, the air held a soft heat that felt like a welcome rather than an assault. We could smell roasting coffee from a nearby cafe and the sweet aroma of fresh mango juice from a stall near the pier. A local guide named Tariq greeted our small group with the widest smile I have ever seen, and within minutes we were loaded into a minibus headed for Ras Mohammed National Park, the jewel of the Red Sea.
The drive through the desert was strangely beautiful. Barren rock stretched in every direction — not a single tree, not a blade of grass — yet the colors were extraordinary. Ochre, sienna, pale gold, and dusty rose layered across the mountains like a painter's palette. I gazed out the window and felt the silence of it, even through the glass. However, nothing prepared me for what waited beneath the surface of the sea.
I slipped into the water at Ras Mohammed and immediately heard myself gasp through my snorkel. Below me, the reef wall dropped away into an abyss of deep blue. The shallow coral garden — alive with soft pinks, bright yellows, and electric purples — gave way to a vertical cliff descending into mystery. Clouds of orange anthias flickered around me like living confetti. I spotted a moray eel peering from its crevice, its mouth opening and closing in a slow rhythm that seemed almost meditative. A sea turtle glided past, utterly unbothered by my presence, and I felt tears prick my eyes behind my mask. The beauty was overwhelming — not just the colors or the life, but the quiet perfection of it, the sense that this reef had been growing here for millennia, completely indifferent to human ambitions and anxieties.
The Moment That Stays With Me: I was floating above the reef wall, suspended between the shallow coral and the deep blue void, when I whispered a quiet prayer of gratitude into my snorkel. It was involuntary — something about being surrounded by that much beauty, that much life, broke through every layer of grown-up composure I normally wear. My heart swelled with awe. I thought about how we spend our lives building things and worrying about things, yet here was a world of astonishing complexity and grace that had been thriving long before us and would continue long after. My eyes watered, and for a moment I couldn't speak even after I surfaced. My wife saw my face and understood. She held my hand and we floated together in silence, watching the reef breathe beneath us.
Back on dry land, we drove to a Bedouin camp where our host served us strong, sweet tea spiced with cardamom. I tasted the warmth spreading through me like liquid kindness. The desert silence settled around us, broken only by the soft clink of tea glasses and the distant sound of wind against rock. Despite the heat, there was something deeply refreshing about the stillness. We sat on rough woven carpets under a simple shade structure, and I noticed how the tactile sensation of coarse wool beneath my fingers grounded me after the otherworldly experience in the water.
Although Sharm el-Sheikh is unabashedly a resort town, built with purpose from desert sands, what surprised me was how genuinely welcoming the Egyptian hospitality felt. There was no pretense, no forced cheerfulness — just warmth. Tariq told us stories about growing up in the Sinai, about his grandfather who had been a fisherman before the reefs became protected, about the delicate balance between tourism and conservation. He spoke with pride, but also with honest concern. "We must be careful stewards," he said. "This reef is a gift, not a possession." Yet even with the challenges, his gratitude for the natural beauty around him was evident in every word.
Still, I noticed the tension between development and preservation. New resorts crept along the coastline, and the occasional plastic bottle marred an otherwise pristine shore. Nevertheless, the commitment to reef protection was visible — strict regulations about reef-safe sunscreen, designated snorkeling areas, and guides who genuinely cared about the ecosystem. The balance was imperfect but earnest, and I respected the effort.
Looking back, I realized that Sharm el-Sheikh taught me something I had not expected. I learned that the most profound experiences often come not from what we build or plan, but from what already exists — ancient, patient, and generous. The reef does not perform for visitors. It simply lives, and in its living, it offers a kind of beauty that makes our carefully constructed anxieties seem small and temporary. Sometimes you need to float weightless above an ancient coral garden to remember what matters — not accomplishment or accumulation, but wonder, connection, and the quiet gift of being alive in a world this beautiful.
The Cruise Port
What you need to know before you tender ashore.
- Terminal: Ships anchor in Sharm el-Sheikh Bay; passengers tender to the marina at Sharm el Maya
- Tender Time: 15-20 minutes each way — enjoy the mountain views
- Distance to Main Areas: Naama Bay 5km (10 minutes by taxi); Sharks Bay 10km
- Currency: Egyptian Pound (EGP); USD and EUR widely accepted in tourist areas
- Language: Arabic official; English widely spoken in resorts and tourist areas
- Time Zone: EET (UTC+2); Egypt observes daylight saving time
- Best Season: Year-round diving; October-April offers most comfortable temperatures (20-28C / 68-82F)
- Water Temperature: 22-28C (72-82F) year-round — comfortable without wetsuit
- Wheelchair accessible: The tender pier and marina area are generally flat, though mobility across sandy stretches can be challenging. Naama Bay promenade is wheelchair-friendly.
Getting Around Sharm el-Sheikh
Sharm is spread out but easy to navigate.
Taxis
The primary way to move between areas. Most taxis are not metered — agree on the price before departure. Standard fares: marina to Naama Bay 50-75 EGP ($2-3 USD); marina to Sharks Bay 100-150 EGP ($4-6 USD). Taxis wait at the tender pier. Agree in USD or EGP depending on which you have. Drivers are generally patient and friendly.
Shore Excursions
For diving, Ras Mohammed, Tiran Island, St. Catherine's, and desert safaris, organized tours are the practical choice. Book through the ship or reputable local operators. Pickup from the tender marina is standard. Having a guide also navigates language barriers and ensures a guaranteed return to the pier before the ship departs.
Walking
Possible within individual areas (Naama Bay promenade, the bazaar near the pier) but not between districts. The desert heat and distance between areas make walking between neighborhoods impractical. Save your energy for snorkeling and reef walks. The Naama Bay waterfront promenade is the most walkable stretch, about 1.5 kilometers of flat, accessible pavement.
Rental Cars
Not recommended for cruise passengers with limited time. Desert driving requires local knowledge, and organized tours provide better value for single-day visits. If you insist, international rental agencies operate from the larger hotels, but navigating unfamiliar desert roads on a tight port-day schedule adds unnecessary stress.
Sharm el-Sheikh Area Map
Interactive map showing the tender marina, Naama Bay, dive sites, and attractions mentioned in this guide. Click any marker for details and directions.
Top Excursions & Things to Do
What I'd do with limited time in Egypt's Red Sea paradise.
Ras Mohammed National Park ($50-80)
Egypt's first national park protects some of the Red Sea's finest coral reefs. The underwater cliffs, pristine corals, and incredible marine biodiversity make this essential for divers and snorkelers. Shore excursions typically include snorkeling stops, desert viewpoints, and the mangrove forest. The "Magic Lake" — a landlocked saltwater lagoon — offers an otherworldly swimming experience. You can book ahead through your ship excursion desk for a guaranteed return to the pier, or go independent with a local operator for roughly half the cost.
Tiran Island Diving and Snorkeling ($45-70)
The straits between Sinai and Tiran Island feature four famous dive sites named after 19th-century cartographers: Jackson, Woodhouse, Thomas, and Gordon reefs. Even snorkelers can appreciate the shallow coral gardens and tropical fish. Tour boats from Sharm include multiple snorkel stops. If you prefer a ship excursion, this is one of the more popular offerings and worth the price for the convenience.
St. Catherine's Monastery & Mount Sinai ($60-90)
This full-day excursion ventures deep into the Sinai interior to one of the world's oldest continuously operating Christian monasteries (founded 6th century AD). The monastery houses priceless icons and ancient manuscripts. Many tours include the pre-dawn climb of Mount Sinai (2,285m) to watch sunrise from the peak. Budget extra for warm layers. Due to the long drive time, a ship excursion offers guaranteed return — book ahead to secure your spot.
Naama Bay Promenade (free)
The original heart of Sharm's resort development, Naama Bay offers a pleasant waterfront promenade lined with restaurants, cafes, and souvenir stalls. It's the most walkable and atmospheric area — less glitzy than newer developments but more charming. Good for evening strolls, casual dining, and browsing. An independent excursion here is simple: just grab a taxi from the pier.
Colored Canyon Desert Safari ($55-75)
For those who have had enough of water, the Colored Canyon offers a complete change of scenery. This narrow desert gorge features layered sandstone in shades of red, yellow, purple, and white — a geological painting millions of years in the making. The excursion includes 4x4 desert driving, hiking through the canyon, and Bedouin tea with freshly baked flatbread. Moderate walking required — not suitable for those with limited mobility. Wear sturdy shoes and bring plenty of water for this unforgettable desert adventure.
Local Food & Drink
Egyptian flavors and Red Sea refreshment.
Egyptian Specialties
Koshary: Egypt's national dish — a hearty mix of rice, lentils, pasta, chickpeas, and crispy onions topped with spicy tomato sauce. Cheap, filling, and delicious. Find it at local restaurants near the pier for 30-50 EGP ($1-2).
Ful medames: Slow-cooked fava beans seasoned with olive oil, lemon, and garlic. A breakfast staple throughout Egypt, often served with pita bread.
Mezze: Shared appetizer platters including hummus, baba ganoush, tabbouleh, stuffed grape leaves, and fresh pita. Ideal for sampling multiple flavors.
Fresh Seafood
Unsurprisingly excellent in a Red Sea resort. Grilled fish (often sea bass, grouper, or red snapper), calamari, and prawns feature on most menus. Many restaurants display fresh catches for you to choose from before cooking. Budget $10-25 per person at waterfront restaurants.
Drinks
Fresh juice: Mango, guava, strawberry, and mixed fruit juices served cold and sweet. Freshly squeezed and inexpensive — $1-2 per glass.
Arabic coffee: Strong, often flavored with cardamom. Served in small cups without milk.
Tea (shai): Black tea served strong and sweet, sometimes with fresh mint.
Depth Soundings
Things I wish I'd known before my first visit.
- Bring Cash: Small US dollar bills work everywhere and save exchange headaches. Bring $1, $5, and $10 bills for tips, taxis, and purchases. ATMs exist but lines can be long.
- Reef-Safe Sunscreen: Sharm's reefs are treasures — use only reef-safe, mineral-based sunscreen (zinc oxide or titanium dioxide). Many chemical sunscreens harm coral.
- Water Shoes: Rocky entries and potential sea urchins make water shoes essential for reef snorkeling. They also protect against sharp coral.
- Modest Dress: While resorts are relaxed, cover shoulders and knees when visiting the bazaar or venturing beyond tourist areas. This shows respect and avoids unwanted attention.
- Bargaining: Expected with local stall owners and taxi drivers. Start at 50% of asking price and negotiate cheerfully. Walking away often brings the price down.
- Tipping Culture: Baksheesh (tipping) is customary. Guides expect $5-10 per person for good service; restroom attendants 5-10 EGP; small services deserve small tips.
- Underwater Cameras: Always ask before capturing images of people. Military and government installations are off-limits. Waterproof phone cases capture amazing reef memories.
- Hydration: The desert climate is deceptively dehydrating. Drink more water than seems necessary, especially before and after snorkeling or diving.
- Book Diving in Advance: If you are a certified diver, book dive excursions before arrival. Popular sites fill quickly, and pre-booking ensures you do not miss Ras Mohammed or Tiran Island.
Photo Gallery
Frequently Asked Questions
Where do cruise ships dock in Sharm el-Sheikh?
Ships anchor offshore in Sharm el-Sheikh Bay and tender passengers to the marina at Sharm el Maya. The tender ride takes 15-20 minutes and offers beautiful views of the Sinai mountains. Tender tickets are distributed onboard — arrive early on busy days to avoid long waits.
Is Sharm el-Sheikh good for diving and snorkeling?
Absolutely — it is one of the world's premier diving destinations. Ras Mohammed National Park and Tiran Island offer spectacular coral reefs, diverse marine life, and excellent year-round visibility. Even beginners can enjoy outstanding snorkeling from many of the protected bays.
What currency do I need in Sharm el-Sheikh?
The Egyptian Pound (EGP) is official, but US dollars and euros are widely accepted in tourist areas. Bring small bills ($1, $5, $10) for tips and purchases. ATMs are available but often have queues on port days.
Is Sharm el-Sheikh safe for tourists?
Yes, the resort areas are very safe with visible security. Tourism is Egypt's economic lifeline, and authorities prioritize visitor safety. Follow normal precautions and respect local customs.
Do I need a visa for Egypt?
Most nationalities need a visa. Many cruise lines arrange shore passes for day visits. If exploring independently, check current visa requirements for your nationality. Single-entry tourist visas are often available on arrival ($25 USD).
Can beginners snorkel safely in Sharm el-Sheikh?
Yes. Many shores have gentle, shallow entry points ideal for beginners. Organized snorkel tours provide flotation devices and guides. Start at protected bays before venturing to reef walls. Always snorkel with a buddy and wear reef-safe sunscreen.