Jamestown harbor nestled between volcanic cliffs on St. Helena island, South Atlantic Ocean

St. Helena

Photo: In the Wake

St. Helena: Napoleon's Island Prison at the End of the Earth

St. Helena exists in a category of its own. Not merely remote — isolated beyond any reasonable definition of the word. Twelve hundred miles from Africa. Eighteen hundred miles from South America. Five miles wide, ten miles long, rising from the Atlantic like a volcanic fortress ringed by cliffs. For two centuries, the only way to reach St. Helena was by ship — a five-day journey from Cape Town. In 2017, the island finally got an airport, but commercial flights remain limited. When our expedition ship dropped anchor off Jamestown and I descended to the tender boat, I felt what Napoleon must have felt when the British exiled him here in 1815: this is the edge of the map. There is nowhere more remote. And there is no escape.

Jamestown clings to a narrow valley between rust-red volcanic cliffs so steep they seem to lean inward, as if sheltering the town from the immensity of the ocean beyond. Georgian buildings line the main street — white-painted facades with green shutters, wrought-iron balconies, stone walls weathered by salt and time. This is Britain transported to the middle of the Atlantic, preserved in amber for two hundred years. The Union Jack flies over the castle. The Consulate Hotel serves proper afternoon tea. Yet St. Helena is not England. It's something lonelier, stranger, shaped by isolation into a world that exists nowhere else. The wirebird — a plover found only on this island — stalks the highlands. Giant tree ferns crowd the cloud forests. Napoleon's ghost haunts Longwood House, where he spent his final six years watching the horizon for ships that would never take him home.

The Moment That Stays With Me: Standing in the Valley of the Tomb, where Napoleon was buried from 1821 to 1840 before France reclaimed his remains. The tomb itself is empty now — a simple stone slab beneath weeping willows in a garden so quiet I could hear the rustle of leaves and nothing else. No traffic. No crowds. Just wind and birdsong and the weight of history. Napoleon Bonaparte, who commanded armies and crowned himself Emperor, died here in exile, forty-six hundred miles from Paris, surrounded by British guards and volcanic rock. The valley felt less like a tomb than a sanctuary — beautiful, peaceful, utterly isolated. I understood why the British chose St. Helena. There was nowhere on Earth he could run.

Jacob's Ladder dominates Jamestown — a vertical staircase of 699 steps climbing 600 feet from the harbor to the plateau above. Built in 1829 to haul cargo, it's now a challenge for visitors foolish or fit enough to attempt the ascent. I climbed. Twenty minutes of burning thighs and pounding heart, pausing on the landings to catch my breath and look down at the town shrinking below. The view from the top — the harbor, the cliffs, the endless Atlantic — was worth every step. A certificate of completion awaited at the summit, as if conquering Jacob's Ladder were a rite of passage. Perhaps it is. St. Helena demands effort. Nothing here comes easy. But the rewards are profound.

Port Essentials

What you need to know before you anchor.

  • Terminal: No cruise pier — ships anchor offshore at Jamestown and tender passengers to harbor
  • Distance to Town: Jamestown is immediately accessible from tender landing; major sites require taxi or tour
  • Tender: Yes — all passengers tender from ship to harbor (weather-dependent; swells can delay operations)
  • Currency: Saint Helena Pound (SHP) equal to British Pound (GBP); both accepted; limited ATMs in Jamestown
  • Language: English (British-influenced with unique local dialect)
  • Driving: Left side (British style); roads narrow and winding; taxis recommended for cruise visitors
  • Best Season: October-April (austral summer); cooler and drier; whale sharks November-May; humpback whales June-December; expedition cruises typically call during transatlantic voyages

Top Experiences

How I'd spend my time.

Longwood House — Napoleon's Exile Estate

Where Napoleon Bonaparte lived from 1815 until his death in 1821. Preserved as it was during his captivity — original furniture, personal items, deathbed. French property administered by French government. Poignant, haunting, historically profound. Audio guides tell the story of his final years. Beautiful gardens. Half-day tour. Essential for history enthusiasts. The house is small, stark, windswept — Napoleon called it "the worst place in the world." He wasn't wrong about the isolation.

Valley of the Tomb — Napoleon's Original Burial Site

Napoleon's tomb from 1821-1840 (remains moved to Paris in 1840). Simple stone slab beneath weeping willows. Peaceful garden. Profoundly moving. Often combined with Longwood House tours. Free entry. Short walk from parking. One of the most historically significant sites in the South Atlantic. The empty tomb speaks volumes about exile, death, and legacy.

Jacob's Ladder — 699-Step Climb

Historic incline railway replaced with stairs in 1829. Climbs 600 feet from Jamestown to Half Tree Hollow. 699 steps (world's longest straight staircase according to Guinness). Strenuous but achievable for moderately fit visitors. Stunning harbor views. Certificate of completion at summit. Takes 20-40 minutes depending on pace. Free. Bring water and sturdy shoes. Unforgettable physical challenge with rewarding views. Those who can't (or won't) climb can drive around via the road and view the ladder from above or below.

Jamestown — Historic Capital Walk

St. Helena's only settlement of substance — Georgian architecture, St. James' Church (oldest Anglican church in Southern Hemisphere, built 1774), the Castle (government headquarters since 1659), museum, Napoleon-era sites, colorful shops, cafés. Compact and walkable. 2-3 hours. The Consulate Hotel serves traditional afternoon tea. The museum covers island history from discovery (1502) through the RMS St. Helena era to modern day. Jamestown feels frozen in time — charming, quiet, deeply British despite being in the middle of the Atlantic.

Diana's Peak National Park — Endemic Cloud Forest

Highest point on St. Helena (2,684 feet). Cloud forest with endemic tree ferns, gumwood, and rare plants found nowhere else on Earth. Wirebird habitat (St. Helena's national bird — critically endangered plover endemic to the island). Hiking trails with panoramic views. Cool, misty, otherworldly. Half-day excursion. Requires taxi or tour to reach trailhead. Birders and botanists will be in heaven. The cloud forest feels like Jurassic Park — ancient, primeval, utterly unique.

Plantation House — Giant Tortoise & Governor's Residence

Official residence of the Governor of St. Helena. Beautiful gardens. Home to Jonathan, the world's oldest known living land animal — a Seychelles giant tortoise aged 192+ years (hatched circa 1832). Jonathan is a celebrity; visitors can observe him grazing on the lawn. Free entry to grounds (house interior not open to public). Short taxi ride from Jamestown. Family-friendly, historically charming, and you can say you met a tortoise older than the light bulb.

Heart-Shaped Waterfall & Coastal Hikes

Heart-Shaped Waterfall is St. Helena's iconic photo spot — a natural cascade forming a heart shape on volcanic cliffs. Short hike from parking area. Other coastal trails offer dramatic cliffside views, sea bird colonies, and windswept Atlantic vistas. Sandy Bay, Lot's Wife's Ponds (natural tidal pools), and The Barn (scenic coastal walk) are all accessible with taxi or tour. St. Helena's rugged landscapes reward those willing to explore beyond Jamestown.

St. Helena Area Map

Interactive map showing tender landing at Jamestown, Napoleon sites (Longwood House, Valley of the Tomb), Jacob's Ladder, Diana's Peak, Plantation House, and key island landmarks. Click any marker for details and directions.

Getting Around

  • Walking: Jamestown is compact and walkable. Napoleon sites, Diana's Peak, and Plantation House require taxi or tour.
  • Taxis: Available in Jamestown. Negotiate fare before departure (no meters). Drivers offer island tours (half-day or full-day). Reliable and knowledgeable. Book ahead for cruise ship days — taxis limited.
  • Organized Tours: Ship excursions typically include Longwood House, Valley of the Tomb, and Jamestown highlights. Local operators offer custom itineraries.
  • Car Rental: Available but not necessary for cruise visitors — taxis more practical for short port calls. Roads are narrow, winding, and driving is left-side British style.
  • Bus Service: Limited public buses serve local residents. Not practical for cruise visitors with time constraints.

Local Food & Drink

  • Fresh Fish: Yellowfin tuna, wahoo, and other Atlantic species. Simply grilled or in fish cakes. Jamestown restaurants serve catch of the day.
  • Saint Cuisine: Blend of British, African, Asian, and South Atlantic influences. Fish with pumpkin fritters, curries, stews. Hearty and unpretentious.
  • Plo: Traditional St. Helena dish — rice cooked with fish or meat, tomatoes, and spices. Comfort food unique to the island.
  • St. Helena Coffee: Grown on the island since the 18th century. Napoleon drank it daily. Premium, rare, and expensive — one of the world's most exclusive coffees. Available in Jamestown cafés and shops.
  • Fishcakes: Island specialty — battered and fried fish cakes served as snacks or sides. Found in pubs and cafés throughout Jamestown.
  • St. Helena Distillery Rum & Gin: Locally produced spirits. St. Helena Bay Rum and Wirebird Gin use island botanicals. Available in shops and bars. Perfect souvenir.

Pro Tips

  • Book taxis early — limited number of drivers, and cruise ship days see high demand. Ship tours guarantee transportation but cost more.
  • Weather can delay tender operations — be flexible and patient. Swells occasionally prevent landing. St. Helena's isolation means port calls are weather-dependent.
  • Bring British Pounds or Saint Helena Pounds — ATMs exist in Jamestown but cards are widely accepted. Small shops may prefer cash.
  • Wear layers — coastal Jamestown can be warm, but Diana's Peak and interior highlands are cool and misty. Weather changes quickly.
  • Jacob's Ladder is strenuous — assess your fitness honestly. No shame in skipping it or driving to the top for views without the climb.
  • St. Helena Coffee makes an exceptional souvenir but is expensive (~£25-40 per small bag). Worth it for coffee enthusiasts. Napoleon drank it daily.
  • Respect endemic wildlife — the wirebird is critically endangered. Stay on trails in Diana's Peak National Park and observe from a distance.
  • Longwood House is managed by the French government — tours conducted in English and French. Photography allowed. Moving and historically profound — allocate sufficient time.
  • St. Helena is one of the world's most isolated inhabited islands — embrace the remoteness. Visiting by cruise ship is rare and special. Savor the experience.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: How do cruise ships dock at St. Helena?
A: Ships anchor offshore at Jamestown and tender passengers to the harbor. There is no cruise pier. Tendering is weather-dependent — swells can delay or cancel operations. Bring layers and patience.

Q: Can I visit Napoleon's tomb?
A: Yes. The Valley of the Tomb preserves Napoleon's original burial site (1821-1840). The tomb is now empty (remains moved to Paris in 1840), but the peaceful valley and Longwood House (his exile residence) tell the story of his final years. Tours available.

Q: What is Jacob's Ladder and should I climb it?
A: Jacob's Ladder is a 699-step staircase climbing 600 feet from Jamestown to Half Tree Hollow. Built 1829. Strenuous but achievable for moderately fit visitors. Stunning views. Certificate at top. Takes 20-40 minutes. Bring water and good shoes. Skip if you have knee or heart issues.

Q: How remote is St. Helena really?
A: Extremely. 1,200 miles from Africa, 1,800 miles from South America. Population ~4,500. Until 2017, the only access was by ship (5 days from Cape Town). One of the world's most isolated inhabited islands. Visiting by cruise is rare — most expedition itineraries include St. Helena on transatlantic or South Atlantic routes.

Q: What wildlife is unique to St. Helena?
A: The wirebird (St. Helena plover) — critically endangered, found nowhere else on Earth. Endemic invertebrates, giant earwigs, unique flora (St. Helena ebony, tree ferns, gumwood). Jonathan the giant tortoise (192+ years old, world's oldest known land animal). Whale sharks and humpback whales in surrounding waters seasonally. Isolation created unique ecosystems — many species critically endangered.

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