Zanzibar, Tanzania

I stepped off the gangway at seven in the morning, and the warm air hit me like a wall. The humidity wrapped around my skin, and underneath it I caught the scent of cloves — sweet and sharp, rising from somewhere I could not yet see. My shoes met the concrete pier, and already I could hear the call to prayer drifting from a minaret beyond the port gate. This was Zanzibar, and nothing I had read prepared me for how completely it would seize my senses in those first sixty seconds.

Stone Town was right there. I did not need a taxi, did not need a shuttle bus, did not even need directions. I walked through the port gate and found myself immediately inside a labyrinth of narrow coral-stone alleyways that seemed to breathe with centuries of accumulated life. The walls were rough under my fingertips when I steadied myself rounding a corner. The light came down in slanted columns between buildings so close together I could nearly touch both walls at once. I smelled roasting coffee from a tiny shop, heard the clatter of a brass tray being set down, felt the worn smoothness of a stone step beneath my sandal.

I wandered for hours. Stone Town earned its UNESCO World Heritage designation in 2000, but the place has been significant for a thousand years. Persian traders, Arabian merchants, Indian craftsmen, European colonizers — all left their mark on these streets. I could see it in the carved wooden doors, over five hundred of which still survive. Each door told me something about the family who commissioned it: brass studs meant wealth, intricate lotus patterns signified Hindu influence, Arabic script quoted the Quran. However, what struck me most was not the grandeur but the ordinariness of life flowing around these artifacts. Women carried baskets of mangoes past doors that belonged in museums. Children played football in courtyards framed by centuries-old coral stone.

My guide, a young man named Hamid, led me to a spice farm about thirty minutes outside town. I climbed into a minibus that rattled along potholed roads through lush greenery. At the farm, I touched the rough bark of a clove tree and held a fresh nutmeg seed in my palm — it was warm and oily and smelled so strongly that my eyes watered. I tasted raw vanilla straight from the pod, sweet and earthy. The guide showed us cinnamon bark being peeled from a tree, and I watched a boy shimmy up a coconut palm so effortlessly it looked like walking. The spice tour cost me $30 and lasted about three hours. I learned that Zanzibar was once the largest clove producer on earth, and that these farms still operate much as they did a century ago. Despite the tourist buses, the experience felt genuine.

After the spice tour I took a boat to Prison Island, a twenty-minute ride across water so clear I could see the sandy bottom. The island is home to giant Aldabra tortoises, some over a hundred years old. I knelt beside one whose shell was as wide as my outstretched arms and felt the rough, cool surface under my hand. The tortoise blinked slowly at me, ancient and unbothered, then extended its leathery neck toward a piece of lettuce I held out. I watched it chew with such deliberate patience that I found myself slowing my own breathing to match. The boat ride cost $25 round trip, and I spent about two hours on the island.

Back in Stone Town by early afternoon, I made my way to Jozani Forest, Zanzibar's only national park, about forty-five minutes south. The entry fee was $10. Within minutes of entering the forest canopy, I heard rustling above me and looked up to see a family of Red Colobus monkeys — rust-colored fur, wide dark eyes, long tails draped over branches like ropes. These monkeys exist nowhere else on earth. I stood still beneath them, barely breathing, as a mother cradled an infant against her chest. The baby turned its face toward me, and for a moment we simply looked at each other. I felt something shift inside me — a quiet recognition that I was the visitor here, the temporary one, and these creatures had been swinging through these branches long before anyone built a port or carved a door. I realized then what I had been too busy to notice: Zanzibar was not performing for me. It was simply being itself, and I was grateful to witness it.

That evening I made it back to the waterfront just as the sun was dropping toward the Indian Ocean. I walked along the promenade toward Nungwi, though I knew the northern beaches were an hour away and beyond my reach that day. Instead I sat on a low wall near the harbor and watched the dhow boats — wooden sailing vessels with triangular lateen sails — ghosting across the orange water. The breeze finally cooled my face after the long hot day, carrying the smell of grilling fish and the sound of vendors calling out to passersby.

Although I only had one day in Zanzibar, the island gave me enough memories to fill a week. Yet it also left me with a deep awareness of how much I had not seen, how many alleyways remained unexplored, how many stories remained unheard. I learned that the best port days are not the ones where you check every box, but the ones where you surrender to a place and let it lead you. Zanzibar taught me patience. It taught me to slow down, to look more carefully, to listen. Sometimes you arrive at a destination thinking you will see it, and instead it sees you.

What you need to know before you dock.

• Terminal: Mtoni Marine Terminal in Stone Town — walk directly from pier into UNESCO Heritage site; no shuttle needed. The pier area has basic facilities but limited wheelchair accessible paths beyond the immediate terminal.
• Distance to City Center: Stone Town attractions immediately accessible on foot; pier at edge of historic district
• Tender: No — ships dock at the pier
• Currency: Tanzanian Shilling (TZS); US Dollars widely accepted (carry small bills for tips); credit cards limited
• Language: Swahili, English (English spoken in tourist areas)
• Driving: Left side (British style); car rental available but not necessary for cruise day
• Best Season: June-October (dry weather, peak season); December-February also dry but hotter
• Cultural Notes: Predominantly Muslim — dress modestly in Stone Town (shoulders/knees covered); remove shoes at mosques
• Mobility Note: Stone Town's uneven coral stone streets and narrow alleys present challenges for wheelchair users and those with mobility concerns. Spice tours and Prison Island boat transfers also require moderate walking ability.

• Walking: Stone Town is compact and best explored on foot. From port, you are immediately in the historic district. Comfortable shoes are essential because the streets are made of uneven coral stone that can be slippery when wet. Most major sights — the House of Wonders, Old Fort, Forodhani Gardens — lie within a fifteen-minute walk of the pier. Allow extra time because the winding alleyways are intentionally confusing, a defensive design from centuries ago. Download an offline map before you go ashore.
• Taxis: Available at the port gate for spice tours, Jozani Forest, and northern beaches. Always negotiate the fare before departure because there are no meters. Expect to pay approximately $30-50 USD for a half-day hire. Confirm return time and meeting point before your driver leaves. A taxi to Nungwi Beach costs roughly $40 one way.
• Dalla-Dalla (Local Bus): Minibuses serving locals along set routes. They cost less than $1 per ride but are crowded and confusing for visitors. Not practical for a cruise day when timing matters.
• Bicycle Rickshaws: Available in Stone Town for short distances. Negotiate the price first — typically $5-10 for a brief ride through town. A good option for those with walking difficulty who want to see the alleys without the physical effort.
• Organized Tours: Most excursions beyond Stone Town — spice tours, Prison Island, Jozani Forest — require arranged transport. You can book ahead through the ship or arrange tours with reputable local operators who meet you at the port gate. Independent booking is typically cheaper than ship excursion pricing, but ship excursion options provide a guaranteed return to the vessel.

How to spend your time ashore. You can book ahead through the ship excursion desk for guaranteed return to the vessel, or arrange independent tours at the port for lower cost. Either way, plan your time carefully around your ship's departure.

Stone Town UNESCO World Heritage Site

The maze itself is the attraction — narrow winding streets, labyrinthine alleyways, over 500 historic carved wooden doors. Arabian, Indian, Persian, European influences blend in unique architecture. House of Wonders (largest building, former sultan's palace), Old Fort (17th century Arab Fort hosting cultural events), Livingstone House (where explorer David Livingstone prepared expeditions). Free to explore on foot. Wear comfortable shoes and embrace getting lost. Half-day minimum to appreciate fully. A ship excursion guided walking tour costs approximately $45-60 per person, while independent guides at the port gate charge around $15-20 for a two-hour walk.

Spice Tour

Zanzibar's signature excursion — a thirty to forty-five minute drive to spice farms where you see, smell, and taste cloves, nutmeg, cinnamon, black pepper, vanilla, cardamom, and ginger growing in their natural state. Portuguese traders introduced spices in the 16th century, and Zanzibar became the world's major clove producer. Guides demonstrate harvesting techniques, explain medicinal uses, and weave palm fronds into hats and roses. Half-day tours cost approximately $25-40 USD when booked independently. A ship excursion version typically runs $55-75 per person. Educational and deeply sensory — the air smells like a spice cabinet come to life. Book ahead if visiting during peak season, as tours fill quickly.

Prison Island (Changuu Island)

A twenty-minute boat ride from Stone Town. Giant Aldabra tortoises, some over 100 years old, roam freely on the island — you can feed and photograph them. The island was formerly a quarantine station, never actually used as a prison despite its name. Beautiful coral beaches and good snorkeling. Half-day excursion costs approximately $20-30 USD including boat transfer when arranged independently. Tortoises are patient, ancient, and utterly charming. Combine with beach time for a full experience.

Jozani Chwaka Bay National Park

Zanzibar's only national park — home to rare endemic Red Colobus monkeys found nowhere else on earth. Mangrove boardwalks, nature trails, and unique flora. Located forty-five minutes from Stone Town. Entry fee is approximately $10 USD. Best visited in morning when monkeys are most active. Guides are required and included in the entry price. The monkeys are habituated to visitors but remain wild. Watching family groups interact in the canopy is a moving experience. Half-day excursion.

Forodhani Gardens Evening Food Scene

This waterfront park transforms nightly into an open-air food festival. Grilled seafood (octopus, lobster, squid, fish), Zanzibar pizza (savory filled flatbread), sugarcane juice, and fresh tropical fruit fill the stalls. Sunset views and an authentic local atmosphere. If your ship stays late, this is worth the visit. Prices are negotiable but very reasonable — expect to spend $5-10 for a full meal. Cash only (USD or TZS).

Dhow Cruise at Sunset

A dhow cruise takes you out on a wooden sailing vessel with lateen sails, the same type of boat that has plied these waters for centuries. Sunset cruises cost approximately $30-40 USD per person and last about two hours. You sail along the Stone Town waterfront as the sky turns orange and the call to prayer echoes across the water. Some operators include light refreshments. Book ahead through local operators at the port or through the ship excursion desk for a guaranteed return option.

• Bring small-denomination US Dollar bills ($1, $5, $10) for tips, purchases, and street food. Many vendors cannot make change for $20 or larger bills.
• Dress modestly in Stone Town — shoulders and knees covered. Zanzibar is predominantly Muslim, and respectful attire ensures a warm welcome. Beachwear is appropriate only at beaches.
• Spice tours are Zanzibar's signature experience — prioritize this if you have limited time. The sensory immersion is unforgettable.
• Stone Town's streets are intentionally confusing (a defensive design from centuries ago). Download an offline map or hire a local guide. Getting lost is part of the charm, but always keep track of your ship's location and departure time.
• Bargaining is expected with street vendors. Start at roughly 50% of the asking price. Smile and be friendly — negotiation is a social ritual, not combat.
• Forodhani Gardens food stalls operate evenings from sunset onward. If your ship departs in the late afternoon or evening, this is a worthwhile experience for authentic street food.
• Prison Island tortoises are gentle but ancient — never climb on them. Bring lettuce or cabbage if the tour operator allows it.
• Jozani Forest is best visited in the morning when Red Colobus monkeys are most active. Wear insect repellent and long sleeves.
• Ask permission before photographing people with your camera, especially women in local dress. A small tip is appreciated if they agree.
• Drink only bottled water. Avoid ice unless you are at a reputable establishment.
• Wheelchair users and visitors with mobility concerns should be aware that Stone Town's narrow, uneven coral stone pathways are not accessible. Spice tours involve moderate walking on unpaved terrain. Prison Island boat transfers require stepping onto a small vessel.

All photographs on this page are used under free license or with permission. Individual credits appear beneath each image. Hero photograph sourced from Unsplash. Port-specific images sourced from Unsplash contributors. We are grateful for the generosity of photographers who share their work freely.

Q: Where do cruise ships dock in Zanzibar?
A: Ships dock at Mtoni Marine Terminal in Stone Town. You can walk directly from the pier into the UNESCO World Heritage historic district. No shuttle or taxi is needed for the main Stone Town attractions, though taxis are available at the port gate for excursions farther afield.

Q: What is Stone Town famous for?
A: Stone Town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site (designated 2000) known for its narrow labyrinthine streets, unique blend of Arabian, Indian, Persian, and European architecture, and over 500 historic carved wooden doors. It is a cultural crossroads preserved in coral stone and time, with centuries of layered history visible in every alleyway.

Q: Are spice tours worth the cost?
A: Absolutely. Zanzibar is the Spice Island, and tours let you see, smell, and taste cloves, nutmeg, cinnamon, vanilla, and more growing in their natural state. Half-day tours cost approximately $25-40 when booked independently or $55-75 through the ship. The sensory experience is unlike anything else on the island.

Q: Can I see wildlife in Zanzibar?
A: Yes. Prison Island has giant Aldabra tortoises, some over 100 years old. Jozani Forest is home to rare endemic Red Colobus monkeys found nowhere else on earth. Both are half-day excursions accessible from the port by taxi and boat respectively.

Q: What currency should I bring?
A: The official currency is the Tanzanian Shilling (TZS), but US Dollars are widely accepted. Bring small bills ($1, $5, $10) for tips and purchases. Credit cards are accepted at some hotels and restaurants but not by vendors or smaller operators. ATMs are available in Stone Town, but carrying cash is recommended.

Q: How should I dress in Zanzibar?
A: Zanzibar is predominantly Muslim. In Stone Town, dress modestly with shoulders and knees covered. Beachwear is appropriate only at beaches and resorts. Respectful clothing ensures a warm welcome and comfortable interactions throughout the historic district.

Q: Is Zanzibar accessible for wheelchair users?
A: Stone Town's narrow coral stone alleys and uneven terrain present significant challenges for wheelchair users or those with limited mobility. The port terminal itself has basic accessible facilities, but the historic district is largely not wheelchair-friendly. Spice tours and boat transfers to Prison Island also require moderate physical ability.

Q: What is the best time of year to visit Zanzibar?
A: Peak cruise season runs from June through October, offering dry weather and comfortable temperatures. December through February is also dry but hotter. The long rains fall from March through May, when seas can be rough and some excursions are limited.