Bora Bora: The Island That Photographs Don't Do Justice
The ship anchored in Pofai Bay and Mount Otemanu filled the frame – an extinct volcanic spire rising 2,385 feet (727 meters) from a lagoon so impossibly turquoise it looked digitally enhanced. I'd seen thousands of photos of Bora Bora. None prepared me. The colors exist on a spectrum that cameras simply can't capture: blues that shift from aquamarine to sapphire to emerald depending on depth and light, greens so vivid they hurt. They call this place the "Pearl of the Pacific," and standing on deck watching that sacred peak pierce the morning sky, surrounded by a barrier reef that glows like liquid gemstone, I understood why.
Polynesians have called this island home for thousands of years, naming it Pora Pora ("firstborn") in their navigation mythology – the sacred first child of their ancestral homeland. Europeans arrived in 1722 and mispronounced the name; the error stuck. During World War II, the Americans transformed paradise into fortress: 5,000 GIs stationed here, building airstrips, fuel depots, and coastal defenses to protect the South Pacific supply lines. The relics at Faanui Bay still stand – cannons rusting in the jungle, concrete bunkers reclaimed by vines – surprising reminders that this paradise once bristled with military purpose. Today, only beauty remains, and the island's population of roughly 10,000 permanent residents shares it graciously with those of us who arrive by ship.
The Lagoon Experience
Bora Bora isn't a port – it's an anchorage. There is no dock here; the barrier reef and shallow lagoon make direct berthing impossible. Your ship stops in the protected waters, and tender boats ferry passengers the 5-10 minutes to Vaitape village on the island's western shore. The tender ride itself is stunning, Mount Otemanu's sacred peak growing larger as you approach, the water beneath shifting through a dozen shades of blue, so clear you can watch the coral gardens pass thirty feet below.
The lagoon is the attraction. Every excursion worth taking involves getting into or onto it: snorkeling among reef sharks and rays at designated feeding sites, kayaking through water so clear you feel suspended in air, jet skiing around the motus (small islands) that ring the lagoon, or swimming with rays and sharks at protected shallow sites. The Lagoonarium – a natural aquarium sectioned by nets in the lagoon itself – offers one of the most reliable encounters: eagle rays, blacktip reef sharks, sea turtles, and tropical fish swirl around you in water so warm and clear it feels like swimming through liquid light.
Glass-bottom boat tours offer non-swimmers views of the underwater world. Many tours include a motu beach stop where fresh fruit and coconuts appear seemingly from nowhere, served on white sand that squeaks underfoot. The water is bathwater warm year-round – snorkeling gear is all you need, though reef-safe sunscreen is essential. The sun here is equatorial and unforgiving.
Vaitape & Island Exploration
Vaitape is Bora Bora's main village – perhaps 4,000 residents, a handful of shops, a post office (popular for stamps), and tour operators lining the waterfront. It's charming in a low-key way; this isn't a destination for shopping or nightlife. An ATM, internet cafe, and car rental are available near the tender pier.
A ring road circles the island – 32 kilometers that pass through villages, past WWII relics at Faanui Bay (look for the overgrown coastal gun emplacements and concrete bunkers from the 1942-46 American presence), and along beaches that remain surprisingly undeveloped despite Bora Bora's fame. The southern tip of the island curves into Matira Beach, consistently rated one of the world's finest beaches – a crescent of powdery white sand where the lagoon turns impossibly shallow and warm, perfect for wading out fifty yards with water barely reaching your knees. Public access exists, though the best facilities belong to the hotels lining the shore.
Renting a car or joining a 4x4 island tour reveals a side of Bora Bora most visitors miss: family gardens bursting with hibiscus and frangipani, roadside fruit stands selling papayas the size of footballs, and viewpoints where Mount Otemanu frames itself against lagoon and sky. Hiking trails lead to panoramic overlooks, though the summit of Otemanu itself is a technical climb for experts only – the sacred peak remains largely untouched, its vertical basalt walls reserved for the skilled and reverent.
Most of the famous overwater bungalows cluster on the eastern side of the lagoon, inaccessible without resort reservations. However, some resorts offer day passes including lunch, pool access, and beach time – worth investigating if ultimate luxury appeals.
Practical Realities
Bora Bora is expensive – among the most expensive destinations on earth. A simple lunch can run $40-50 USD; excursions often cost $150+ per person. The currency is the CFP franc (tied to the euro), though USD are sometimes accepted. Budget accordingly and consider booking ship excursions for predictable pricing.
Shade is limited on beach excursions – bring reef-safe sunscreen, a hat, and plenty of water. The sun here is intense, and sunburns happen quickly. Most excursions include snorkeling gear; bringing your own mask ensures a good fit.
The best time to visit is May through October (dry season), though Bora Bora is beautiful year-round. January through March brings more rain but also warmer water and fewer crowds.
Port Map
Tap markers to explore Bora Bora's lagoon and island
Frequently Asked Questions
Do ships dock at Bora Bora?
No – there is no dock at Bora Bora. The barrier reef and shallow lagoon make direct berthing impossible. Ships anchor in the protected lagoon waters and tender passengers to Vaitape village. The tender ride (5-10 minutes) offers gorgeous views of sacred Mount Otemanu as you approach.
What is the Lagoonarium?
The Lagoonarium is a natural aquarium in the lagoon itself – a netted section where you can snorkel safely with eagle rays, blacktip reef sharks, sea turtles, and tropical fish. It's one of the most reliable ways to encounter marine life up close in crystal-clear water.
Can I visit Matira Beach?
Yes – Matira Beach on the southern tip is publicly accessible and consistently rated one of the world's best beaches. The water is incredibly shallow and warm, perfect for wading. Hotels line the shore with better facilities, but the beach itself is open to all.
Is snorkeling with sharks safe?
Yes – the black-tip reef sharks and lemon sharks at Bora Bora's feeding sites are not aggressive toward humans. Guides supervise all encounters. It's exhilarating rather than frightening.
Can I visit an overwater bungalow resort?
Some resorts offer day passes including lunch, pool, and beach access. Contact resorts directly or through shore excursions. Expect to pay $200+ per person for this luxury experience.
How expensive is Bora Bora really?
Very. Budget $40-50 for lunch, $150+ for excursions, $10+ for a beer. The CFP franc is the currency. Many visitors book ship excursions to control costs.
Until I have sailed this port myself, these notes are soundings in another's wake. This guide draws from published accounts, fellow cruisers, and careful research — but it does not yet carry the weight of my own anchor. I am working my way through the world's cruise ports, one by one, to write what I see with my own eyes and feel with my own heart. This page awaits that day.