Captain's Logbook
The ship docked at Portside Wharf and I stepped into subtropical warmth that felt like a welcome home after days at sea. Brisbane wraps you in humidity and genuine Queensland friendliness — strangers strike up conversations in the ferry queue, recommend their favorite coffee spots unprompted, and wave goodbye like you're an old friend. The shuttle dropped me at South Bank where the Brisbane River curved through the city, and my day began at the Cultural Centre Pontoon waiting for the scenic river cruise to Lone Pine.
The river cruise to Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary has been running for over seventy years, and I understood why within the first ten minutes. The boat glided past jacaranda trees draping purple cascades over the banks, historic Queenslander houses with wide verandahs catching the breeze, and the city skyline shrinking behind me. The morning sun turned the water into rippled bronze, and I sat on the open deck feeling the humid air move across my face. This wasn't just transportation — it was the beginning of the experience. However, if you're short on time, taxis reach Lone Pine in 25-30 minutes for about $45 AUD.
Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary opened in 1927 with just two koalas named Jack and Jill. Nearly a century later, it houses more than 130 koalas and over 70 species of Australian native wildlife. Walking through the gates felt like entering a carefully tended conservation love letter — decades of care showed in every enclosure, every information sign, every keeper interaction. The sanctuary sits on 18 hectares of bushland along the Brisbane River, and the sounds of lorikeets and kookaburras created a constant soundtrack.
The five-acre kangaroo reserve stopped time completely. More than 130 kangaroos roam freely here, so accustomed to visitors that they barely lift their heads when you approach. I bought a bag of feed pellets for $3 AUD, sat cross-legged in the grass, and waited. Within minutes, joeys and does surrounded me, their soft noses bumping against my palm. A joey hopped into my lap, convinced I was holding out on him. Nevertheless, I stayed there for forty-five minutes, feeling the gentle communion with creatures who couldn't care less about cruise schedules. The admission price of $49 AUD includes unlimited time in the kangaroo reserve — no rushing, no lines, just you and the roos.
The Koala Close-Up experience replaced hands-on koala holds in July 2024, and I'll confess I was skeptical. Yet standing in the enclosure, I realized this was better. Instead of a rushed fifteen-second photo, I spent meaningful time with a koala named Archer. The keeper positioned him on a low branch at eye level, and I stood close enough to see the silver tips of his ears, the way his eyes half-closed in contentment, the surprisingly strong grip of his claws on eucalyptus bark. Archer yawned — a slow, leisurely movement that revealed tiny teeth and a pink tongue. The experience costs $35 AUD on top of admission, and the small groups mean quality time rather than conveyor-belt photos. Brisbane doesn't manufacture Instagram moments. It gives you real connection instead.
Beyond koalas and kangaroos, I watched the raptor free flight show as wedge-tailed eagles and barn owls swooped so close overhead I heard the whistle of their wings through the air. The sheep dog demonstration showcased border collies working with precision that bordered on telepathy. A platypus — true to form — hid in his burrow, but the wombats waddled obligingly past their viewing windows. The afternoon slipped away in a haze of eucalyptus scent and animal encounters, and I caught the last river cruise back to South Bank.
What I learned in Brisbane reshaped how I think about wildlife tourism. The old koala holds felt transactional — hand the tourist an animal, snap the photo, next in line. This new approach asks you to be present, to observe, to earn the animal's attention through stillness. The sanctuary prioritizes koala welfare over tourist convenience, and the result is somehow more meaningful. Brisbane doesn't try to impress you. It invites you to slow down and pay attention. That's the lesson I carried back to the ship as the subtropical sun set over the river, painting the Story Bridge in shades of amber and gold.
The Cruise Port
Location Reality: Portside Wharf is Brisbane's dedicated cruise terminal, positioned at the river mouth with views across Moreton Bay. It's a modern facility about 20-30 minutes from South Bank by shuttle. The terminal has restaurants, retail outlets, and covered walkways.
Getting to South Bank: Most ships provide complimentary shuttles to South Bank (the main tourist hub). Taxis queue at the terminal ($25-35 AUD to South Bank). Rideshares available. No practical walking option — the distance and industrial surroundings make wheels essential.
Accessibility: Terminal is wheelchair accessible. South Bank is flat with excellent pathways. CityCat ferries have wheelchair access at most stops. Lone Pine has paved paths through main areas; some natural bush trails are less accessible. Low stamina level for South Bank exploring; moderate for full Lone Pine day.
Currency: Australian Dollar (AUD). Credit cards widely accepted. ATMs at terminal and South Bank.
Getting Around
CityCat Ferries: Brisbane's secret weapon — cheap ($5 AUD single), air-conditioned, scenic, and punctual. These sleek catamarans connect all major attractions along the Brisbane River from University of Queensland to Northshore Hamilton. Buy tickets at terminals or tap contactless cards. Wheelchair accessible. Use CityCats as your floating sightseeing platform between attractions.
Ship Excursions vs Independent: Ship excursions to Lone Pine cost $120-150 AUD and guarantee return. Go independent for better value — river cruise from South Bank runs $55 AUD round trip and is half the experience. Book ahead during cruise season as the scenic boats fill up. Ship excursions make sense if you're worried about timing or want guided narration.
Taxis and Rideshares: Plentiful throughout Brisbane. Expect $25-35 AUD from terminal to South Bank, $40-50 AUD to Lone Pine directly. Uber and Ola operate throughout the city.
Walking: South Bank is extremely walkable with excellent riverside pathways. Brisbane CBD is manageable but spread out. Avoid walking from the cruise terminal — it's an industrial area with no pedestrian appeal.
Buses: Regular bus services connect major attractions throughout the city. Buy Go Cards at convenience stores for cheaper fares ($3.50 AUD vs $5 AUD cash). Real-time tracking via the TransLink app makes navigation straightforward.
Brisbane Port Map
Interactive map showing cruise terminal, South Bank, Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary, and river ferry routes.
Excursions & Activities
Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary ($49 AUD admission, 3-5 Hours)
World's first and largest koala sanctuary with 130+ koalas and 70+ Australian wildlife species. Hand-feed kangaroos in the five-acre reserve (feed $3 AUD). Koala Close-Up experience ($35 AUD extra) offers meaningful time with koalas at eye level. Raptor free flight show, sheep dog demonstrations, wombats, Tasmanian devils, and platypus. Ship excursions cost $120-150 AUD. Go independent via river cruise from South Bank ($55 AUD round trip, 75 minutes scenic journey) or taxi ($40-50 AUD, 25 minutes). Book ahead for river cruise — it fills up during cruise season. Moderate stamina level with extensive walking through sanctuary grounds.
South Bank Parklands (Free, 2-3 Hours)
Brisbane's riverside cultural precinct with Streets Beach (free man-made lagoon with lifeguards), Queensland Art Gallery, Queensland Museum, and Wheel of Brisbane ($22 AUD). Restaurants and cafes line the riverside. No booking needed — just wander. Go independent — easy walk from shuttle drop-off. Low stamina level on flat pathways. Perfect for morning or afternoon when Lone Pine takes half the day.
River Cruise to Lone Pine ($55 AUD round trip, 75 minutes each way)
Scenic journey upstream past Queenslander houses, jacaranda trees, and the city skyline. Running for 70+ years. Departs from South Bank Cultural Centre Pontoon. Includes sanctuary admission in some packages ($89 AUD combo). Book ahead as boats fill during cruise season. Go independent — this is the way to experience Lone Pine. Low stamina level sitting on boat; moderate at sanctuary.
Mount Coot-tha Lookout (Free or $25-35 taxi, 1-2 Hours)
Panoramic views over Brisbane, Moreton Bay, and the Glass House Mountains. Free to visit; getting there costs taxi fare ($25-35 AUD from South Bank) or bus #471 ($5 AUD). Botanic gardens at the base if you have time. Go independent — easy half-day add-on. Low stamina level at lookout; moderate if exploring gardens.
XXXX Brewery Tour ($35 AUD, 1.5 Hours)
Brisbane's famous brewery offers tours with tastings. Located in Milton, accessible by CityCat to Milton ferry terminal. Book ahead online. Go independent. Adults only (18+). Low stamina level.
Moreton Island Day Trip ($150-200 ship excursion, Full Day)
Sand dunes, shipwrecks for snorkeling, and wild dolphins. Only accessible via ship excursion or organized tour — ferries don't time well with cruise schedules. Book through ship for guaranteed return and included transportation. High stamina level with beach walking and activities.
Local Food & Drink
Moreton Bay Bugs: Local lobster-like crustacean, sweet and succulent. Try at South Bank restaurants for $35-50 AUD.
Meat Pies: Australian essential. Brumby's or any bakery. $5-8 AUD. Perfect quick lunch.
XXXX Gold: Queensland's hometown beer, pronounced "four-ex." $6-10 AUD at pubs. Lighter than most Australian lagers.
Fish and Chips: Fresh barramundi or snapper at South Bank eateries. $15-25 AUD.
Flat White: Australian coffee culture runs strong. $5-7 AUD at any cafe. Better than ship coffee.
Current Notices
Shuttle Timing: Note your last shuttle return time. Missing it means $35+ AUD taxi back to Portside Wharf.
Sun Protection: Queensland sun is intense year-round. Sunscreen, hat, and water essential even on cloudy days. The subtropical humidity amplifies UV exposure.
Wildlife Rules: Don't feed wild animals anywhere except designated areas. Lone Pine provides approved food for kangaroos.
Depth Soundings
The Cons: Brisbane requires choosing your priorities. You can't do Lone Pine, Mount Coot-tha, and thorough South Bank exploring in one port day. Although the city is welcoming, distances between attractions eat time. Yet most visitors find Lone Pine alone worth the visit — the kangaroo reserve and koala encounters deliver genuine wildlife connection.
The river cruise to Lone Pine takes 75 minutes each way. However, the journey is half the experience — jacaranda trees, Queenslander houses, and cityscape views make it worthwhile. Nevertheless, if you're short on time, the $45 AUD taxi cuts travel to 25 minutes and lets you maximize sanctuary hours.
Brisbane is hot. Subtropical humidity can overwhelm visitors from cooler climates, especially December through February. But the locals have adapted with excellent air conditioning, shaded pathways, and riverside breezes. South Bank's Streets Beach offers free cooling off between attractions.
Lone Pine admission ($49 AUD) plus Koala Close-Up ($35 AUD) plus river cruise ($55 AUD) totals nearly $140 AUD before food. However, the experience justifies the cost — this isn't a zoo but a conservation-focused sanctuary where animals receive genuine care. The memories outlast the expense.
Practical Information
Currency: Australian Dollar (AUD). Cards widely accepted. ATMs at terminal and South Bank.
Language: English with Australian slang. "Arvo" means afternoon, "brekkie" means breakfast.
Tipping: Not expected in Australia. Rounding up appreciated for exceptional service.
Weather: Subtropical. Summer (Dec-Feb) hot and humid, 25-35°C (77-95°F). Winter (Jun-Aug) mild, 15-22°C (59-72°F). Rain possible year-round.
Best Time: May-October for pleasant temperatures. September-October for jacaranda blooms along the river.
Power: Australian plugs (Type I), 230V. Adapter needed for US/European devices.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Can I hold a koala at Lone Pine?
A: Koala holds ended July 2024. The new Koala Close-Up experience ($35 AUD) offers extended time with koalas at eye level on branches. Many visitors find this more intimate than the old rushed photo format.
Q: Is the river cruise to Lone Pine worth it?
A: Yes. The 75-minute journey past jacaranda trees, Queenslander houses, and the city skyline is half the experience. Book ahead during cruise season. If time is tight, taxis reach Lone Pine in 25 minutes for $45 AUD.
Q: What's the best thing to do in Brisbane?
A: Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary. The kangaroo reserve and koala encounters offer genuine wildlife connection unavailable elsewhere. Allow 3-4 hours minimum.
Q: Is South Bank worth visiting?
A: Yes, especially for families. Streets Beach is free with lifeguards, surrounded by restaurants and cultural venues. Good option for morning or late afternoon around a Lone Pine trip.
Q: Should I book excursions through the ship?
A: For Lone Pine, go independent — river cruise from South Bank is half the price and part of the experience. Ship excursions make sense for Moreton Island where logistics are complicated.
Q: How hot is Brisbane?
A: Subtropical hot. Summer (Dec-Feb) reaches 35°C (95°F) with high humidity. Sunscreen, hat, and water essential. Air conditioning and shaded paths provide relief.
Last reviewed: January 2026
Until I have sailed this port myself, these notes are soundings in another's wake. This guide draws from published accounts, fellow cruisers, and careful research — but it does not yet carry the weight of my own anchor. I am working my way through the world's cruise ports, and this page awaits that day.
Photo Gallery
