Notre Dame Cathedral Basilica of Saigon with its distinctive red brick facade and twin bell towers

Ho Chi Minh City

Photo: Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA)

Ho Chi Minh City: Vietnam's Irrepressible Southern Metropolis

Let's be clear about geography first: Phu My port sits roughly 80 kilometers southeast of Ho Chi Minh City, a solid two-hour drive through industrial stretches and gradually intensifying traffic. The port itself is a working commercial facility with nothing of tourist interest — no cafes, no wandering. Ships dock, buses collect passengers, and the journey begins. This is not a port for casual strolling. It demands a plan, preferably booked in advance. But what awaits in the city and surrounding countryside rewards every minute of that drive.

Ho Chi Minh City — still called Saigon by nearly everyone who lives there — wears its history in layers you can read like tree rings. The French colonial architecture hasn't disappeared; it simply shares space with glass towers and street markets. Notre Dame Cathedral rises in red brick imported brick by brick from Marseille, its twin bell towers a piece of France planted in Southeast Asian soil. Across the plaza stands the Saigon Central Post Office, designed by Gustave Eiffel's firm and built between 1877 and 1883. The building still functions as a post office, and stepping inside feels like walking into a railway cathedral — all vaulted iron, polished wood, and maps showing "Saigon and its environs" from an era that no longer exists. The French occupied this city for nearly a century. Their elegant boulevards remain. Their rule did not.

The Moment That Stays With Me: Seventy kilometers northwest of the city, I descended into the Cu Chi Tunnels and felt the ground swallow me whole. Construction began in the late 1940s during the war of independence from French colonial rule — villagers digging by hand, carving out a hidden world beneath the jungle. When the Americans arrived, the network exploded into tens of thousands of miles of interconnected passages. These weren't just tunnels. They were underground villages: living quarters, kitchens, hospitals, ordnance factories, even theaters. Entire communities lived below ground for months, sometimes years. The tunnels have been widened for tourists — I still emerged scraped, sweating, gasping for air. The original passages were half this width. American and South Vietnamese soldiers known as "tunnel rats" were specially trained to navigate these suffocating corridors, never knowing what waited in the darkness ahead. Standing in those cramped chambers, the ceiling brushing my head, I tried to imagine sleeping there, eating there, giving birth there. The people who dug these tunnels are still alive. This isn't ancient history. It's living memory.

Back in the city center, the Reunification Palace stands as the landmark of modern Vietnamese history — the site where the Vietnam War ended on April 30, 1975, when North Vietnamese tanks crashed through the gates. The building remains frozen in that moment: 1960s-era furnishings, war room maps still marked with tactical positions, the calendar on the wall showing the date the world changed. A few blocks away, the War Remnants Museum offers the Vietnamese perspective on the conflict, sobering and unflinching. These two sites form a pair — one official, almost ceremonial; the other raw and unsparing. Together they tell a story the city refuses to forget, even as it races forward into glass and steel and relentless, irrepressible modernity.

The contrast defines this place: French colonial elegance alongside Vietnamese resilience, history preserved while motorbikes flood the streets in their millions. Ben Thanh Market erupts in organized chaos — spices, lacquerware, silk, souvenirs — and the noodle stalls inside serve pho that tastes like the city itself: layered, complex, impossible to simplify. Ho Chi Minh City survived occupation, war, and revolution. It did not merely survive. It thrived. That energy, that refusal to be diminished, permeates every street corner.

Port Essentials

What you need to know before you dock.

  • Terminal: Phu My Port — commercial port 80 km from Ho Chi Minh City center
  • Distance to City: 1.5-2 hours each way by road; ship excursion or transfer essential
  • Tender: No — ships dock at the commercial pier
  • Currency: Vietnamese Dong (VND); USD widely accepted; credit cards at larger establishments
  • Language: Vietnamese; English spoken at tourist sites and by guides
  • Driving: Right side (traffic is chaotic by Western standards — don't drive yourself)
  • Weather: Hot year-round; rainy season May–November

Top Experiences

How I'd spend my time.

Cu Chi Tunnels

Extraordinary underground network used by resistance fighters. Explore widened sections, see booby traps, learn survival techniques. About 60 km northwest of the city. Half-day minimum. Essential Vietnam experience.

Reunification Palace

Where the Vietnam War ended on April 30, 1975. The building remains as it was that day — a time capsule of 1960s-70s architecture and history. Central location. Entry ~100,000 VND.

Notre Dame Cathedral & Central Post Office

Side-by-side French colonial landmarks. The post office (Gustave Eiffel's firm) is functioning and spectacular. Cathedral exterior impressive even during renovation. Walking distance apart in District 1.

Ben Thanh Market

Iconic covered market since 1914. Souvenirs, textiles, spices, lacquerware, and extraordinary food stalls. Haggling expected. Best visited mornings. Central location.

War Remnants Museum

Sobering collection documenting the Vietnam War primarily from the Vietnamese perspective. Not for everyone, but historically significant. Central location. Entry ~40,000 VND.

Jade Emperor Pagoda

Atmospheric Chinese temple built in 1909, filled with incense smoke and intricate wood carvings. A working place of worship. Respectful dress required. Free entry.

Ho Chi Minh City Area Map

Interactive map showing Phu My port, Cu Chi Tunnels, and city center attractions. Click any marker for details and directions.

Local Food & Drink

  • Pho: The iconic noodle soup — beef or chicken broth with rice noodles and fresh herbs
  • Banh Mi: Vietnamese baguette sandwich with meat, pickled vegetables, cilantro, and chili
  • Goi Cuon: Fresh spring rolls with shrimp, pork, vermicelli, and herbs in rice paper
  • Ca Phe Sua Da: Vietnamese iced coffee with sweetened condensed milk — strong and addictive
  • Banh Xeo: Crispy rice crepe stuffed with pork, shrimp, and bean sprouts
  • Che: Sweet dessert soups — countless varieties with beans, jellies, and coconut

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: Can I get to Ho Chi Minh City independently from Phu My?
A: Theoretically yes, but not recommended. Few taxis at port, long distance, traffic unpredictable. Book a ship excursion or private transfer.

Q: Is it safe?
A: Yes, generally safe for tourists. Watch for pickpockets in crowded areas. Traffic looks terrifying but flows; cross streets slowly and steadily.

Q: Can I do Cu Chi Tunnels and city highlights in one day?
A: Yes, but it's a full day. Most cruise excursions combine both with strategic routing.

Q: What should I wear?
A: Light, breathable clothing. Shoulders/knees covered for temples. Comfortable walking shoes. Hat and sunscreen essential.

Q: Should I exchange money before arriving?
A: USD is widely accepted. ATMs available in the city. Small vendors prefer dong.

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