Hubbard Glacier: Standing Before a 7-Mile Wall of Ancient Ice
Nothing prepares you for the scale. Our ship rounded Gilbert Point and there it was – a wall of ice stretching seven miles across Yakutat Bay, rising 350 feet above the waterline with another 250 feet lurking below. That's 600 feet total – the same height as Seattle's Space Needle. Hubbard is not just North America's largest tidewater glacier; it's the longest tidewater glacier in the world, named after Gardiner Hubbard, founder of the National Geographic Society.
The captain announced we'd spend 90 minutes here, rotating the ship 360 degrees so both sides could see. Ninety minutes felt like nothing. The glacier's face constantly shifted – blues deeper than any sapphire, whites that seemed to glow from within, striations of black volcanic rock telling geological stories millions of years old. The ice at the face started as snowflakes 400 years ago near Mount Logan in Canada, the second-tallest peak in North America.
Understanding the Glacier
Scientists call Hubbard "The Galloping Glacier" because it's been steadily advancing into Disenchantment Bay for over 100 years – one of the few glaciers in Alaska actually growing rather than retreating. It moves forward about 80 feet per year, occasionally surging to block Russell Fiord entirely. When that happens, the fiord becomes a lake until the ice dam dramatically breaks. The last major surge was 1986, but scientists watch it closely.
The glacier extends 75 miles back into the St. Elias Mountains, fed by snowfields that receive 30 feet of snow annually. At some points, the ice is over 2,000 feet thick. Calving occurs roughly every 15 minutes during active periods, routinely sending icebergs the size of 10-story buildings crashing into Yakutat Bay with a sound called "white thunder."
Wildlife thrives in these nutrient-rich waters. Keep your eyes on the ice floes – harbor seals haul out to rest, sometimes with chubby spring pups. Watch the shoreline for brown bears, the water for humpback whales, and the sky for bald eagles. Kittiwakes and other seabirds wheel above, diving for fish churned up by the calving ice.
Maximizing Your Viewing
Skip breakfast in the dining room – grab something portable and stake out deck space early. The best viewing is from the bow or upper observation decks, but honestly, Hubbard is so massive that you'll see it well from almost anywhere on the ship's forward-facing side.
Binoculars are essential for spotting wildlife on the ice and watching calving events develop. The cracks appear moments before the ice falls – experienced glacier watchers can often predict where the next calving will occur.
Dress in layers. Even on sunny days, the air near the glacier is noticeably colder. You'll want to stay outside for the full experience, and that means being comfortable in temperatures that can be 10-15 degrees cooler than you might expect.
The Spiritual Weight of Ice
There's something contemplative about watching ice that old. Each calving event releases water frozen when Shakespeare was writing plays, when the Mayflower hadn't yet sailed. The glacier doesn't care about human timelines. It advances, retreats, calves, rebuilds. It was here before us and will be here after.
Many passengers I've talked to describe Hubbard Glacier as a spiritual experience. Not religious, necessarily – just a profound reminder of scale, time, and forces beyond our control. Standing before that ice wall, human concerns feel appropriately small. It's peaceful in its way.
Port Map
Hubbard Glacier scenic cruising area
Frequently Asked Questions
Can we get off the ship at Hubbard Glacier?
No – this is scenic cruising only. The ship approaches the glacier face (typically within half a mile) but there's no landing. You'll experience the glacier from the ship's decks.
Will we definitely see calving?
Calving happens constantly, but dramatic events are unpredictable. Most visits include at least small calving events. Major collapses are less frequent but unforgettable when they occur.
How close does the ship get?
Ships typically approach within 0.25 to 0.5 miles of the ice face, depending on ice conditions. The captain uses judgment based on floating ice and safety. Even at half a mile, the scale is overwhelming.
What's the difference between Hubbard and Glacier Bay?
Hubbard is a single massive glacier you view from the ship. Glacier Bay National Park includes multiple glaciers plus hiking, kayaking, and ranger programs. Both are spectacular; Glacier Bay offers more variety, Hubbard offers sheer scale.