Scenic Cruising: The Inside Passage is a waterway, not a port. This guide covers the sailing experience through this spectacular route.
From the Logbook
We sailed through a world of islands—over a thousand of them, forest-clad and fjord-cut, stretching from Puget Sound to the land of ice. The Inside Passage is less a route than a maze, a protected labyrinth where the Pacific's fury is broken by land masses so thoroughly that the ship glided on water smooth as glass. Eagles circled. Seals sunned on rocks. The smell was pine and salt and cold.
At 3 a.m., I stood on deck watching the light. This far north in June, the sun barely sets—it just dips toward the horizon and hesitates, painting everything gold and violet for hours that feel stolen from time. A humpback breached off the port side, hung impossibly in mid-air, and crashed back in a fountain of spray. I was too stunned to photograph it. Some moments are for witnessing, not capturing.
What is the Inside Passage?
The Inside Passage is a network of protected waterways stretching over 1,000 miles from Seattle or Vancouver to Skagway, Alaska. Islands and peninsulas shield ships from the open Pacific, creating calm sailing conditions through some of North America's most spectacular scenery.
Unlike ocean crossings, the Inside Passage keeps land in sight most of the time. Forested islands, glaciers, and snow-capped peaks frame the route. Wildlife is abundant—whales, eagles, bears on distant shores.
The Route
Southbound to Northbound Highlights
- Puget Sound: Departure from Seattle through island-dotted waters.
- Vancouver & Georgia Strait: Alternate departure point. Stunning coastal scenery.
- Queen Charlotte Strait: Open water section before entering protected waters.
- Grenville Channel: Narrow passage between mainland and islands.
- Ketchikan: First Alaska port—totem poles and salmon.
- Tracy Arm or Endicott Arm: Fjords with tidewater glaciers.
- Juneau: State capital, Mendenhall Glacier.
- Lynn Canal: Deepest fjord in North America.
- Skagway/Haines: Northern terminus, Gold Rush history.
- Glacier Bay: Separate permit-limited destination. Spectacular calving glaciers.
Scenic Cruising Days
Alaska itineraries include dedicated "scenic cruising" days through glacier-carved waterways:
Glacier Bay
National park requiring ship permits (limited daily entries). Ships spend 8-10 hours navigating to Margerie and Grand Pacific glaciers. Rangers board to provide commentary. Glacier calving (ice breaking off) is the highlight.
Tracy Arm Fjord
Alternative to Glacier Bay. Narrow fjord with Sawyer Glaciers. Icebergs float past. Seals on ice floes. More intimate than Glacier Bay, though smaller scale.
Hubbard Glacier
Largest tidewater glacier in North America. Ships approach close for calving views. Located in Disenchantment Bay.
College Fjord
Five tidewater glaciers visible from the ship—named for East Coast colleges. Part of Prince William Sound cruises.
Wildlife
The Inside Passage is one of the world's great wildlife viewing destinations:
- Humpback Whales: Common May-September. Breaching, bubble-net feeding.
- Orcas: Resident pods near Vancouver Island. Transient orcas throughout.
- Bald Eagles: Ubiquitous. Every port, every anchorage.
- Bears: Black and brown bears on shores, especially near salmon streams.
- Sea Lions & Seals: Lounging on rocks, riding ice floes.
- Dolphins & Porpoises: Often ride the bow wave.
Tip: Bring binoculars. Much wildlife is visible from the ship but at a distance. Balcony cabins are excellent for spontaneous sightings.
Practical Information
Best Season
May-September. June and July have longest days and warmest weather. May and September offer fewer crowds and sometimes northern lights.
Weather
Cool and often wet. Expect 10-18°C (50-65°F). Rain is common; layers and waterproof jacket essential. Glaciers create cold downdrafts.
What to Wear on Deck
- Layered clothing (temperatures drop near glaciers)
- Waterproof outer layer
- Hat and gloves for glacier viewing
- Comfortable shoes with grip
Viewing Tips
- Check the daily schedule for scenic cruising times
- Forward-facing observation lounges fill early
- Upper decks offer best whale-watching vantage
- Listen for announcements from the bridge
Route Map
FAQs
Is the Inside Passage rough?
Generally calm. Protected waters mean less swell than open ocean. Brief open-water sections (Queen Charlotte Strait) can be rougher but are usually manageable.
Will I see glaciers calving?
At Glacier Bay or Tracy Arm, very likely. Ships position for extended viewing. Calving is unpredictable but happens frequently. The thunderous crack is unforgettable.
Balcony or inside cabin?
Balcony cabins are worth the premium for Alaska. Wildlife appears unexpectedly. Glacier viewing from your private balcony is magical. Inside cabins work but you'll miss spontaneous moments.
Author's Note: The Inside Passage is about the journey as much as the destinations. Stay on deck. Watch. Listen. This is what Alaska cruising is really about.