We tendered in and the very first thing I saw was a raft of 40+ sea otters floating on their backs right in front of the ship, cracking clams on their chests like furry little businessmen eating lunch. Sitka is heartbreakingly pretty — snow-capped Mount Edgecumbe across the sound looking like Alaska's answer to Mount Fuji, Russian church spires rising above the trees, bald eagles perched on literally every lamppost. This is the only Alaska port where Russian, Tlingit, and American histories collide so visibly, and walking these streets feels like stepping through multiple centuries at once.

Sitka was the capital of Russian America from 1808 until the Alaska Purchase in 1867, and you feel that history everywhere. The Russians came for sea otter pelts — the same adorable creatures we watched floating in the harbor were once hunted to near-extinction for their impossibly soft fur. By the 1800s, New Archangel (as the Russians called Sitka) had grown to 800 residents and was the largest settlement on the Pacific coast north of San Francisco. The Tlingit people had lived here for thousands of years before the Russians arrived, and their presence remains strong — nearly half of Sitka's modern population claims Native heritage, and the totem poles standing throughout town tell stories that predate European contact by millennia.

We started at Sitka National Historical Park — the totem trail winds through temperate rainforest with poles standing like silent storytellers among spruce and salmonberry bushes. These aren't replicas; they're original poles rescued from abandoned Tlingit villages and carefully preserved. The visitor center film about the 1804 Battle of Sitka and Tlingit resilience made me tear up. Chief Katlian led 800 Tlingit warriors here defending their fort against the Russians, who'd already lost their first settlement to Tlingit forces in 1802. The battle ended in Russian victory, but the Tlingit resistance is remembered as one of the most significant Native military actions in Alaska history.

Then the Alaska Raptor Center — watching a bald eagle with a 7-foot wingspan spread its wings three feet from my face (behind glass) was humbling. This facility rehabilitates injured eagles, owls, hawks, and other raptors, releasing most back into the wild. The flight training center lets you watch eagles swooping overhead in a 20,000-square-foot enclosure. I'd never been so close to these magnificent birds, and understanding their anatomy and behavior from the naturalists made the experience even richer.

Fortress of the Bear was next — rescued orphaned brown bears in a huge natural enclosure. An 800-pound male named Killisnoo stood on his hind legs and roared — a sound I'll never forget. The sanctuary rescues orphaned cubs who would otherwise be euthanized, raising them in as natural an environment as possible. Seeing these massive animals up close (safely behind barriers) gave me a visceral appreciation for why bear safety matters so much in Alaska.

Afternoon whale watching was pure magic: we found humpbacks bubble-net feeding in a coordinated group of 12. The guide cut the engine and we drifted while they rose around us in a perfect circle, mouths open like living parachutes, water streaming off their baleen. Also saw transient orcas hunting seals and Steller sea lions hauled out by the hundreds on rocky islets. The wildlife density around Sitka rivals anywhere in Alaska — the cold, nutrient-rich waters of Sitka Sound support an incredible food chain.

St. Michael's Russian Orthodox Cathedral dominates downtown with its distinctive onion dome. The original 1848 structure burned in 1966, but the townspeople rushed into the flames to save the icons and artifacts, which now fill the rebuilt cathedral. Seeing 200-year-old Russian Orthodox icons in a frontier Alaska town is surreal in the best way. The New Archangel Dancers perform traditional Russian folk dances in colorful costumes at Harrigan Centennial Hall — surprisingly energetic and fun, a vivid connection to Sitka's colonial past.

Dinner was halibut Olympia at the Channel Club — baked with mayo, parmesan, and onions — sinful and perfect after a day on the water.

The pros: the most beautiful setting of any Alaska port, richest blend of Russian and Tlingit culture, exceptional wildlife variety, and that volcano backdrop is genuinely stunning. However, Sitka truly shines when you experience its wildlife firsthand.

The cons: it's a tender port with limited time since most ships only stay 6–8 hours, and the dock is 6 miles from town (free shuttles provided).

Practical tips: Book the whale and raptor combo tours for best value. Bring binoculars. The sea otters in the harbor are free entertainment — look for them from the tender or downtown waterfront.

Looking back, what Sitka taught me is that history doesn't erase itself — it layers. Russian onion domes and Tlingit totems share the same skyline not because one conquered the other but because both refused to disappear. I learned that the deepest cultural experiences happen not in museums but in the moments between — watching a master carver work in silence, hearing the breath of a whale before seeing its spout, noticing how local Tlingit families still gather at Sitka National Historical Park where their ancestors once defended these shores. Sitka asks you to hold contradictions gently: colonizer and colonized, sacred and profane, ancient and ongoing. It's uncomfortable. It's also honest.