Photo: Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA)
Last reviewed: February 2026
My St. Maarten Day — A First-Person Account
I stepped off our cruise ship onto the Philipsburg waterfront and the warm Caribbean air hit me like a wall — thick with salt and the faint sweetness of fried dough from a vendor near the terminal. St. Maarten had been on my list for years, ever since I first saw photographs of jets screaming over Maho Beach, and now I was finally here. The morning sun blazed off the turquoise water of Great Bay, and I could already see the colorful Dutch colonial facades of Front Street stretching along the shoreline ahead.
I walked the length of Front Street first, passing jewelry stores, electronics outlets, and liquor shops — all duty-free, all staffed by friendly merchants who knew their inventory. The prices on watches and gold were genuinely lower than back home, though I had done my research and knew exactly what comparable pieces cost at stateside retailers. I picked up a bottle of Guavaberry liqueur for $12, a local specialty you simply cannot find anywhere else. The Dutch colonial buildings painted in cheerful yellows, blues, and pinks gave the whole street a warmth that felt welcoming rather than touristy, and the Great Bay Beach running parallel to the shopping district offered a constant reminder that the Caribbean Sea was never more than a few steps away.
My top priority was Maho Beach, and I caught a taxi from the cruise terminal for $22 — about twenty minutes across the Dutch side. When I arrived at Maho, I understood the hype immediately. The Sunset Bar posts the flight schedule on a chalkboard, and when a large jet is inbound, everyone rushes to the sand. I heard the engines before I saw the plane — a deep, building roar that made my chest vibrate. Then the 747 appeared over the fence, descending so low I could see the rivets on its belly, the landing gear reaching down like talons. The blast of jet wash hit me with the force of a firehose — sand whipping against my legs, salt spray stinging my eyes, my hat nearly ripped from my head. I gripped it and laughed, and the couple next to me were screaming with delight, and a father was holding his daughter's hand so tight his knuckles were white. It was chaos and joy and something close to awe, all at once.
The moment that stays with me happened after the jet had landed and the crowd was still buzzing with adrenaline. I noticed an elderly woman sitting alone at the edge of the Sunset Bar, watching the runway with tears streaming down her face. I sat down next to her, and she whispered that her late husband had been a pilot — he had flown into Princess Juliana for thirty years, and this was her first time back since he passed. She said she could still hear his voice describing the approach, the way he always called it "the most beautiful landing in the Caribbean." Something shifted inside me. I finally understood that Maho Beach is not just about spectacle — it is about connection, about the way a roaring engine can carry memory and love across the years. I thanked her quietly, and we sat together watching two more planes land, saying nothing, needing nothing.
After Maho, I wanted to experience the French side, so I hopped in a taxi ($25) and headed to Marigot, the French capital. The vibe shift was immediate and delightful. Marigot is quieter, more laid-back, with sidewalk cafes serving fresh croissants and espresso, a vibrant open-air venue selling spices, handmade crafts, and local rum, and the ruins of Fort Louis perched on a hill. I climbed up to the fort, sweaty and grateful for the breeze at the top, and took in the panoramic view — turquoise bays, red-roofed houses, sailboats drifting like white birds on calm water, and neighboring Anguilla shimmering on the horizon. The scent of frangipani blossoms drifted up from the gardens below, and I could taste the salt on my lips from the sea air. This was the Caribbean at its most charming.
Lunch was a revelation: I found a beachside lounge on Orient Bay, the French side's most famous beach. Orient Beach is long, wide, and gorgeous, with beach clubs offering lounge chairs, watersports, and fresh seafood. I ordered grilled mahi-mahi with Creole spices for $18, a side of frites (because French side), and a cold Carib beer for $5. The food was simple and perfect, the kind of meal that tastes better because you are barefoot in the sand with the Caribbean Sea lapping at your toes. However, the beach was more crowded than I expected during peak season, and finding a good spot required arriving early.
Before heading back to the ship, I made a quick stop at Loterie Farm, a hidden eco-resort tucked into the jungle on Pic Paradis, the island's highest point. Entry costs $10 and includes access to the nature trails and spring-fed pool. Although I did not have time for the zipline ($45), I did take a dip in the pool, surrounded by tropical greenery and birdsong, and it felt like discovering a secret the island was keeping just for me. Despite the hurried schedule, this quiet moment in the forest was worth every minute I spent getting there.
Looking back on my St. Maarten day, I realized the island taught me something I did not expect. I came for the spectacle of Maho Beach and the bargains of Front Street, yet the moments that changed me were the quiet ones — a widow's whispered memory, the stillness atop Fort Louis, the cool green shade of Loterie Farm. I learned that the best port days are not about checking off attractions. They are about being present enough to receive what each place offers, especially the gifts you never planned for.
The Cruise Port
Philipsburg operates one of the busiest cruise ports in the Caribbean, capable of handling up to five large ships simultaneously at the Dr. A.C. Wathey Cruise Facility on Point Blanche. The terminal building offers air-conditioned comfort, tourist information, currency exchange, and a taxi dispatch area. From the terminal, it is a 10-15 minute walk along the boardwalk to reach downtown Front Street and Great Bay Beach, or you can take a water taxi ($7 per person round trip) that drops you directly at the shopping district.
The port area is generally accessible for wheelchair users and those with mobility challenges, with paved walkways connecting the terminal to the boardwalk. However, the walk to downtown involves some uneven sections and inclines near Point Blanche. Water taxis are the easier option for visitors with walking difficulty. Currency is the Netherlands Antillean guilder, though US dollars are universally accepted on the Dutch side. The French side officially uses euros, but dollars work at most vendors there as well.
Getting Around
Taxis are the primary mode of transport for cruise visitors, with set government rates posted at the terminal. Fares are per person for shared taxis or per vehicle for private hire. Figure $7 per person to Front Street, $20-25 to Maho Beach (20 minutes), $25-30 to Orient Beach or Marigot on the French side (25 minutes). Always confirm whether the quoted price is per person or per vehicle before you get in. Taxis do not use meters — the rate card is your guide.
Rental cars are available from agencies near the port and cost $40-65 per day. Driving is on the right side of the road, and you can cross between the Dutch and French sides without any border control or paperwork. Roads can be narrow and winding through the hills, but the island is only 37 square miles, so nothing is more than 30 minutes away. Parking in Philipsburg and Marigot can be tight during peak cruise days.
Water taxis ($7 round trip) run a frequent shuttle between the cruise terminal and downtown Front Street. This is the fastest and most scenic option for reaching the shopping and beach area, and it is accessible for most visitors though boarding may be challenging for wheelchair users without assistance. For those who prefer walking, the boardwalk from Point Blanche to town takes about 15 minutes and offers lovely views of Great Bay, though it can be hot and exposed during midday. Moderate walking stamina is recommended for exploring Front Street on foot.
Port Map
Explore Philipsburg cruise port and St. Maarten's beaches, shopping, and attractions on both Dutch and French sides. Click markers for details and directions.
Top Excursions and Attractions
Maho Beach Plane Spotting — This is the island's most iconic experience. Planes landing at Princess Juliana International Airport pass directly over the beach at incredibly low altitude. The Sunset Bar posts the flight schedule, and large jets typically arrive between 11am and 3pm. Getting there by independent taxi costs $20-25, or you can book ahead through a ship excursion that includes transportation and a beach chair for around $55-70 per person. Be aware that jet blast is genuinely powerful — hold onto hats, phones, and children firmly. This is a high-energy, standing experience that requires mobility to move safely.
Orient Beach (French Side) — Widely considered the island's best beach, Orient Bay offers a long stretch of white sand with multiple beach clubs, watersports, and restaurants. Independent visitors can take a taxi for $25-30 and rent a chair and umbrella for $10-15. Ship excursions typically run $60-85 and include transportation and a guaranteed return to the ship on time. The beach is suitable for low-walking visitors who want to spend a relaxing day by the water.
Marigot and Fort Louis (French Side) — The French capital offers a completely different atmosphere from Philipsburg, with sidewalk cafes, a waterfront open-air venue with spices and crafts, and the hilltop ruins of Fort Louis ($0 entry). The climb to the fort involves a steep 10-minute hike, but the panoramic views of the harbor and Anguilla are worth the effort. A taxi to Marigot costs $25-30. For those who prefer to book ahead through the ship, guided island tours covering both sides typically cost $55-75 per person and include a guaranteed return to port.
Loterie Farm Eco-Reserve — Hidden in the hills around Pic Paradis, this nature preserve offers ziplines ($45), hiking trails, a spring-fed pool, and a farm-to-table restaurant. Entry is $10 for the pool and trails. It is a wonderful escape from the beach crowds, though getting there requires a taxi ($30-35) and the terrain is uneven, making it unsuitable for wheelchair users. Book ahead during peak season as the facility limits daily visitors.
12 Metre Challenge Regatta — Sail on an actual America's Cup racing yacht ($95-110 per person). This is one of the most unique ship excursions in the Caribbean and fills up quickly. The three-hour experience includes active participation in sailing the boat. Independent booking is available directly with the operator, but the ship excursion offers a guaranteed return and simpler logistics.
Snorkeling at Creole Rock — Located off the coast of Grand Case on the French side, this underwater rock formation teems with tropical fish. Guided snorkel tours cost $45-60 and depart from Grand Case Beach. Ship excursions run $65-85 with transportation from the port. The calm, shallow water makes this accessible for beginners and those with moderate swimming ability.
Depth Soundings Ashore
A few honest notes for planning your St. Maarten day. Maho Beach jet blast is thrilling but genuinely dangerous — the force can knock adults off their feet, and several serious injuries have occurred over the years. Keep a firm grip on children, secure your belongings, and never stand directly behind a departing aircraft at the fence line. The signs warning of injury and death are not decorative.
Front Street shopping is duty-free, but duty-free does not always mean bargain. Know your prices before you buy, especially on jewelry and electronics. Some shops mark up items significantly and then offer "discounts" that bring them back to normal retail. Do your homework. Bring cash for the French side — euros or US dollars both work, however credit cards are not always accepted at smaller vendors in Marigot. Also note that despite the lack of formal border controls, your ship's all-aboard time does not change just because you crossed to the French side. Budget your return taxi time carefully, as traffic between Marigot and Philipsburg can be heavy during peak afternoon hours when multiple ships are in port.
The sun in St. Maarten is fierce year-round. Even on overcast days, UV levels are high enough to cause serious burns within 30 minutes. Reef-safe sunscreen, a hat, and plenty of water are essential regardless of your planned activities.
Photo Gallery
Image Credits
Images sourced from Wikimedia Commons under Creative Commons licenses. Some images may be placeholders pending photo acquisition. All photos used in accordance with their respective CC BY-SA licenses.
Frequently Asked Questions
What makes St. Maarten unique?
St. Maarten is the smallest landmass in the world shared by two sovereign states: the Dutch side (Sint Maarten) and the French side (Saint-Martin). You can experience both cultures, cuisines, and languages on one island with no border controls. The border has been open since 1648.
How do I get to Maho Beach from the cruise port?
Taxis are readily available at the cruise port and cost $20-25 for the 20-minute ride to Maho Beach. Shared taxis and tours are also available at lower per-person rates. The beach is famous for planes landing directly overhead at Princess Juliana Airport. Book ahead through your ship if you want a guaranteed return.
Is shopping really duty-free in Philipsburg?
Yes, Sint Maarten is a duty-free port. Front Street in Philipsburg offers jewelry, watches, electronics, and liquor at tax-free prices. However, compare prices and know what items cost at home before buying to ensure you are getting a genuine deal. Some vendors mark up before discounting.
Can I visit both the Dutch and French sides in one day?
Absolutely. The island is only 37 square miles, and there is no border control between the two sides. A taxi tour or rental car makes it easy to visit Philipsburg (Dutch), Marigot (French), and multiple beaches in a single port day. Budget $80-120 for a private taxi island tour.
Is the port accessible for wheelchair users?
The cruise terminal and boardwalk to town are generally accessible. Water taxis require some stepping ability. Front Street is mostly flat but can be crowded. Maho Beach and Fort Louis are not wheelchair accessible. Orient Beach clubs can accommodate mobility needs with advance notice. Contact your cruise line's shore excursion desk for accessible tour options.