Seattle

My Logbook: Gateway to Alaska's Wild Coast

I've been dreaming about Alaska for years. Not the Alaska of cruise brochures — glaciers framed by deck chairs — but the real Alaska. The one where humpback whales breach next to fishing boats, where bald eagles outnumber tourists, where glacier ice that took ten thousand years to form calves into the sea with a thunder that shakes your bones. And for me, that dream begins in Seattle.

I've spent countless hours researching this port, studying maps, reading trip reports from Alaska veterans, and planning my own pilgrimage north. Seattle sits at the crossroads of urban sophistication and wild Pacific Northwest nature — exactly the kind of contrast that defines great travel experiences. The Emerald City earned its nickname from the evergreen forests that blanket the surrounding hills, and those same forests stretch all the way to the Inside Passage, linking Seattle to the Alaskan wilderness I'm determined to explore.

What fascinates me most is Seattle's history as a gateway. This city has been sending dreamers north since 1897, when gold fever gripped the nation and thousands of prospectors flooded through Elliott Bay on their way to the Klondike. The city marketed itself as the "Gateway to Alaska" — a title it still holds today. I walk Pioneer Square and imagine those prospectors loading supplies, not knowing if they'd strike it rich or freeze on some nameless Yukon trail. Their adventurous spirit shaped modern Seattle, and I feel that same pull northward whenever I study the map.

Pike Place Market has been my first research focus — 117 years of continuous operation, over 200 year-round vendors, and the original Starbucks where Howard Schultz first imagined a national coffee empire. I've watched videos of the famous fish throwers at Pike Place Fish Market, where workers toss whole salmon to each other while tourists gasp and cheer. I want to be there at opening time, before the crowds, when the market belongs to the locals buying their morning produce. The craftsmanship and authenticity of Pike Place represents everything I love about urban markets.

Two major cruise terminals serve Seattle. Smith Cove at Pier 91 handles the bigger ships from Carnival, Holland America, Princess, and Royal Caribbean. Bell Street Pier at Pier 66 sits downtown, walking distance from Pike Place, serving Celebrity and Norwegian. I'm hoping my sailing departs from Bell Street — the convenience of being downtown, steps from the market and the waterfront, would let me maximize my pre-cruise exploration time. But either way, Seattle's Link Light Rail makes getting from SEA-TAC airport straightforward.

The Space Needle draws me for reasons beyond its iconic status. Built for the 1962 World's Fair, when Seattle announced itself to the world as a city of the future, the 605-foot tower represents the kind of bold vision I admire. From the observation deck, I'll see Mount Rainier to the south, the Olympic Mountains to the west, and the Cascades to the east — all the geography that makes the Pacific Northwest so dramatically beautiful. On a clear day, some say you can even glimpse the volcanic cone of Mount Baker to the north, pointing the way toward Alaska.

The Moment I'm Waiting For: Standing on the deck of my ship as we sail north through Puget Sound, watching the Seattle skyline fade behind me and knowing that somewhere ahead — past forested islands and through fog-shrouded passages — glaciers and whales and wilderness are waiting. This is the departure I've been planning for years.

My pre-cruise research has expanded to include the Boeing Factory Tour in Everett, about 40 minutes north of Seattle. Watching 787 Dreamliners being assembled in the world's largest building by volume — 472 million cubic feet of manufacturing space — appeals to both my love of engineering and my fascination with aviation. I've also bookmarked Chihuly Garden and Glass, where Dale Chihuly's massive blown-glass installations transform gardens and galleries into kaleidoscope dreams.

The coffee culture here deserves its own paragraph in my logbook. Beyond the original Starbucks at Pike Place, Seattle birthed the modern espresso movement. I've made lists of independent roasters to try — Victrola, Storyville, Elm Coffee Roasters — each one a temple to the art of extraction. The Pacific Northwest's cool, damp climate created perfect conditions for coffee to become an obsession, and I intend to sample that obsession thoroughly before I sail.

Alaska cruises from Seattle offer a choice that's been occupying my planning: round-trip or one-way. One-way voyages from Seattle to Vancouver (or the reverse) cover more of the Inside Passage and visit more ports — Juneau, Ketchikan, Skagway, and often Glacier Bay or Tracy Arm. Round-trip cruises return to Seattle, which simplifies flights but limits how far north you can go. I'm leaning toward one-way, accepting the complexity of return flights in exchange for maximum Alaska exposure. But that's a decision I'm still weighing as I study itineraries and imagine glaciers.

The Cruise Port

Seattle operates two cruise terminals along Elliott Bay. Smith Cove (Pier 91), located about 10 minutes from downtown, handles Carnival, Holland America, Princess, and Royal Caribbean. The terminal offers 1,100 parking spots, modern facilities, and efficient check-in processes. Bell Street Pier (Pier 66) sits downtown, within walking distance of Pike Place Market and major attractions — serving Celebrity and Norwegian cruise lines.

Both terminals are wheelchair accessible with full amenities. Embarkation typically runs 11am-3pm, with staggered boarding to reduce wait times. Check your cruise documents for specific terminal assignment and arrival window. Currency is US dollars throughout, and credit cards are accepted everywhere. Drop luggage with porters curbside before parking — you'll be reunited with your bags in your stateroom.

Getting Around

• From SEA-TAC Airport: 14 miles south of downtown. Link Light Rail runs every 6-15 minutes ($3.25, 40 minutes to Westlake Station). Uber/Lyft runs $40-55 to cruise terminals. Traditional taxi costs $45-60.
• Link Light Rail: Airport to downtown with stops at University of Washington, Capitol Hill, and Westlake Center. From Westlake, take taxi or rideshare to terminals. The Link is the most economical option for solo travelers.
• Pier 91 Parking: On-site parking managed by Platinum Parking — 1,100 secure spots including accessible stalls. $27+/day. Covered and uncovered options available. Reserve ahead at cruiseseattleparking.com during peak Alaska cruise season.
• Bell Street Parking: Very limited terminal parking. Downtown garages nearby at $35-50/day. Consider drop-off with rideshare.
• RV/Overheight Parking: Available at Pier 91 for $40+/day. Height limit 7'4" in covered garage. RV spots must be reserved.
• Seattle Monorail: Connects Westlake Center to Seattle Center (Space Needle area) in 2 minutes. $3.50 one-way. Nostalgic 1962 World's Fair transportation.
• Washington State Ferries: World's largest ferry fleet. Bainbridge Island ferry (35 min) offers stunning skyline views and charming island town to explore. Walk-on passengers welcome.
• Walking: Downtown Seattle is walkable. Pike Place to Space Needle is about 1 mile. Bell Street Pier is steps from downtown attractions.

Beaches & Waterfront

Seattle offers urban beaches and waterfront parks along Puget Sound — cooler waters than Caribbean destinations, but beautiful Pacific Northwest scenery:

• Alki Beach: Seattle's original settlement site, now a 2.5-mile sandy beach with spectacular skyline views. Popular for walking, biking, volleyball. West Seattle location, 15 minutes from downtown by car.
• Golden Gardens Park: North Seattle beach with mountain views, fire pits, and dramatic sunsets over the Olympic Mountains. Popular for picnics and bonfires.
• Myrtle Edwards Park: Waterfront trail just north of downtown, stretching along Elliott Bay. Perfect for a morning run or sunset walk before your cruise.
• Olympic Sculpture Park: Free outdoor art museum on the waterfront with stunning views of Puget Sound and the Olympic Mountains. Wheelchair accessible paths throughout.
• Seattle Great Wheel: Pier 57 Ferris wheel offering panoramic views from enclosed gondolas. $16 adults. Nice alternative to beach time.

Note: Puget Sound water temperatures rarely exceed 55°F, so swimming is uncommon. These are walking and viewing beaches.

Pre-Cruise Activities & Things to Do

Booking guidance: Most Seattle attractions can be explored independent of ship excursions — you'll save money and have more flexibility. Book ahead for Boeing Factory Tour and Space Needle during peak Alaska cruise season. The Bainbridge Island ferry is walk-on with no reservation needed.

Pike Place Market

Seattle's soul since 1907 — over 200 year-round vendors selling fresh seafood, produce, flowers, and crafts. Watch the famous fish throwers at Pike Place Fish Market, visit the original Starbucks (expect a line), and browse the maze of lower levels filled with antiques and oddities. Arrive early (market opens 9am) to beat the crowds. Free to explore; bring cash for vendors. Allow 2-3 hours minimum for a complete experience.

Space Needle & Seattle Center

Seattle's 605-foot icon offers 360-degree views of Mount Rainier, the Olympics, Cascades, and Puget Sound. The observation deck features a rotating glass floor for the brave. Combined tickets available with Chihuly Garden and Glass next door. Seattle Center also houses MoPOP (Museum of Pop Culture), Pacific Science Center, and KEXP radio studios. Allow half day for the full Seattle Center experience. Book online for specific time slots.

Boeing Factory Tour

Watch 787 Dreamliners being assembled in the world's largest building by volume. The Everett factory covers 98.3 acres under one roof — a jaw-dropping display of manufacturing scale. Tours run 90 minutes and include museum exhibits. Located 30 miles north of Seattle (40-60 minutes depending on traffic). Reserve tickets in advance through futureofflight.org — especially for weekend visits during cruise season when tours sell out.

Chihuly Garden and Glass

Dale Chihuly's massive blown-glass sculptures in indoor galleries and outdoor gardens. The Glasshouse features a 100-foot-long suspended sculpture. Adjacent to Space Needle with combined ticket options. Allow 1-2 hours. Wheelchair accessible throughout.

Bainbridge Island Ferry

35-minute ferry ride across Elliott Bay with stunning Seattle skyline views. Walk-on passengers welcome ($9.75 round-trip). The island offers charming shops, wine tasting, and a small-town atmosphere. Great half-day excursion. Ferries run every 50-60 minutes. No reservation needed for walk-ons.

Underground Tour

Explore the buried city beneath Pioneer Square. After the Great Fire of 1889, Seattle rebuilt on top of itself — literally raising the street level by one to two stories. The underground tour reveals the original storefronts and sidewalks. Entertaining guides share the city's colorful history. Reserve tickets through undergroundtour.com in advance — tours fill up during cruise season. Tours run 75 minutes.

Museum of Pop Culture (MoPOP)

Frank Gehry's wild architecture houses exhibits on music, science fiction, and pop culture. Nirvana, Hendrix, horror films, video games, and Marvel — something for everyone. Located at Seattle Center. Allow 2-3 hours. Wheelchair accessible.

Where to Eat & Drink

Seattle's food scene combines Pacific Northwest ingredients with global influences:

• Pike Place Chowder (Pike Place, $$): Award-winning clam chowder and seafood bisques. Line moves fast. James Beard Award winner.
• Beecher's Handmade Cheese (Pike Place, $): Watch cheese being made through glass windows. The mac and cheese is legendary. Try the flagship curds.
• Piroshky Piroshky (Pike Place, $): Russian bakery with sweet and savory hand pies. The smoked salmon pate is cruise-worthy.
• The Walrus and the Carpenter (Ballard, $$$): Oyster bar with local Pacific Northwest varieties. Reservations essential. Worth the trek to Ballard neighborhood.
• Matt's in the Market (Pike Place, $$$): Refined Pacific Northwest cuisine with market views. Seasonal menu showcasing local ingredients. Reservations recommended.
• Victrola Coffee Roasters (Capitol Hill, $): Seattle's specialty coffee culture at its finest. Expert baristas, direct trade beans.

Budget tip: Pike Place Market vendors offer samples. Combine a market wander with tasting, then grab a main from a counter-service spot.

Local Notices & Current Conditions

• Alaska Cruise Season: May through September. Peak months (June-August) bring higher prices and larger crowds. September offers better whale watching and fall colors.
• Seattle Weather: Pacific Northwest marine climate. Summer days are pleasant (60s-70s°F) but rain is possible year-round. Layers recommended. Seattle's "rainy" reputation is overstated — it gets less annual rain than New York.
• Terminal Parking: Reserve Pier 91 parking in advance during peak Alaska cruise season. Off-site lots offer shuttle service at lower rates.
• Pike Place Market: Opens at 9am. Best visited early morning on weekdays. Weekend crowds can be intense by midday.

Depth Soundings Ashore

Practical tips before you step off the ship.

Seattle is a major American city with all modern conveniences. Currency is US dollars, and credit cards are accepted everywhere. The city is hilly — downtown to Pike Place involves modest elevation changes. Comfortable walking shoes recommended. The terrain between the two cruise terminals differs significantly: Pier 66 (Bell Street) sits downtown amid attractions, while Pier 91 (Smith Cove) requires transportation to reach major sites.

Seattle is generally safe for tourists, with well-patrolled downtown areas and waterfront. Standard urban awareness applies. The city is working on homelessness challenges, visible in some downtown areas, but tourists rarely have issues. Public transit is reliable and safe.

Cell service is excellent throughout Seattle. Free WiFi available at hotels, cafes, and many public spaces. Uber and Lyft operate extensively. Accessibility is good — both cruise terminals accommodate wheelchairs, and major attractions offer accessible options. Tipping follows standard US norms: 18-20% at restaurants, $2-3 per bag for porters, and 15-20% for taxis.

Practical Information

• Currency: US Dollar (USD)
• Language: English
• Time Zone: Pacific Time (PST/PDT)
• Weather: Marine climate — mild year-round. Summer 60s-70s°F. Winter 40s-50s°F. Rain possible any time.
• Port Type: Major Alaska homeport with 2 terminals
• Airport: SEA-TAC International (14 miles south, 30-45 min by transit)
• Accessibility: Both terminals wheelchair accessible. Downtown hills can be challenging — use elevators and escalators at stations.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: Which cruise terminal will my ship use in Seattle?
A: Seattle has two terminals. Smith Cove (Pier 91) serves Carnival, Holland America, Princess, and Royal Caribbean — located 10 minutes from downtown. Bell Street Pier (Pier 66) serves Celebrity and Norwegian — conveniently downtown near Pike Place. Check your cruise documents for terminal assignment.

Q: How do I get from SEA-TAC Airport to the Seattle cruise port?
A: Link Light Rail runs from SEA-TAC to downtown Westlake Station ($3.25, 40 minutes). From Westlake, take taxi or rideshare to terminals. Uber/Lyft direct from airport runs $40-55. Traditional taxi costs $45-60. The Link is most economical for solo travelers.

Q: Should I do a one-way or round-trip Alaska cruise from Seattle?
A: One-way cruises (Seattle to Vancouver or reverse) see more of the Inside Passage and visit more ports like Juneau, Ketchikan, and Skagway. Round-trips are more convenient since you return to your starting city — simpler for flights. One-way offers maximum Alaska exposure; round-trip offers maximum convenience.

Q: What's the weather like in Seattle before Alaska cruises?
A: Peak Alaska cruise season (May-September) brings pleasant Seattle weather in the 60s-70s°F. Always bring layers since Pacific Northwest weather can change quickly. Light rain is possible any time, but dramatic storms are rare in summer.

Q: What should I do with an extra day in Seattle?
A: Pike Place Market for the morning (arrive at 9am opening), then Space Needle and Chihuly Garden for the afternoon. If you have more time, the Boeing Factory Tour is worth the trip north, or take the Bainbridge Island ferry for stunning skyline views.