Photo: Wikimedia Commons
Last reviewed: February 2026
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My Logbook: Where Eden Still Exists
The Seychelles didn't look real. Approaching Mahé by ship at dawn, I kept waiting for someone to admit the whole archipelago was a digital rendering — those massive granite boulders tumbling into water that precise shade of turquoise, palm trees bending at angles that shouldn't be structurally sound, beaches so white they hurt to look at. But it was real. All 115 islands scattered across the western Indian Ocean, 1,000 miles from anywhere, preserving what the rest of the world lost when we paved paradise and put up parking lots. I stood at the rail and watched the island grow larger, the scent of frangipani drifting across the warm morning breeze even before we docked.
Victoria is the world's smallest capital city, and it knows it. I walked the entire downtown in twenty minutes. There's a miniature Big Ben clock tower — locals call it "Little Ben" — that the British left behind when they departed in 1976, a vivid Hindu temple painted in yellows and reds that reminded me this is where Africa meets Asia, and a bustling covered area where vendors sell breadfruit, coconuts the size of bowling balls, and fish I couldn't name. The charm is in the scale — this is a capital city where the president probably knows your grandmother. I heard the sound of Creole music floating from a small radio behind a fruit stall, and the vendor smiled at me as if we'd known each other for years.
My wife and I took a taxi north to Beau Vallon. Fifteen minutes from Victoria, the beach delivered the full Seychelles experience — powder sand that squeaked underfoot, water warm as bathwater, granite formations rising from the shallows like abstract sculpture. I watched our driver navigate the narrow mountain road with the casual confidence of someone who'd done it ten thousand times, and though the hairpin turns made me grip the seat, the views of the coastline below were worth every nervous moment. However, the real surprise was how uncrowded it was. Even at peak season, we had fifty meters of pristine beach almost entirely to ourselves.
I tasted my first Creole lunch that day — grilled red snapper served on a banana leaf with coconut rice and a fiery chili sauce that made my eyes water. The fish had been caught that morning; the cook told me so with the pride of someone who wouldn't dream of serving anything less. The flavor was extraordinary — smoky, salty, with the faintest sweetness from the coconut. I washed it down with a cold Seybrew, the local lager, and felt the warmth of the sun on my shoulders. Despite my usual caution with unfamiliar food, every bite was honest and good.
We walked back along the beach road toward the Botanical Gardens. The entrance fee was just 100 SCR — about $7 — and what waited inside changed something in me. Although I'd seen tortoises in zoos before, nothing prepared me for the scale. Aldabra giants, some estimated at 150 years old, moved through the garden with the unhurried confidence of creatures that have outlived empires. I knelt beside one — his shell was rough and warm under my fingers, etched with decades of sun and rain — and he turned his ancient head to regard me with what I swear was patient amusement.
The Hindu temple in Victoria — the Arul Mihu Navasakthi Vinayagar — was my next stop, and it stood in vivid contrast to the quiet of the garden. The gopuram tower blazed with color against the blue sky, ornate figures carved and painted with a precision that spoke of deep devotion. I removed my shoes at the entrance and felt the cool stone beneath my feet. The scent of incense drifted through the open doorway, sweet and grounding. Yet for all its visual intensity, the temple held a remarkable stillness inside. My wife and I sat for a few minutes in the quiet, watching the light shift through the doorway.
Our afternoon was spent at Sainte Anne Marine National Park. The boat ride took thirty minutes, and the snorkeling was everything I'd hoped for and more. I saw sea turtles gliding through water so clear it felt like flying. Schools of parrotfish in impossible blues and greens moved past me in synchronized waves. The coral was alive and healthy — what reefs should look like everywhere, though so few still do. I surfaced once to find my wife floating beside me, her mask pushed up, grinning. "Did you see the turtle?" she said. I had. We both had. And neither of us could quite believe it.
The cost of our day was remarkably reasonable. Taxi to Beau Vallon: 300 SCR ($20). Lunch for two: 400 SCR ($28). Botanical Gardens: 200 SCR ($14) for both of us. Marine park snorkeling tour: €160 for both. We spent less than $250 total for what I would honestly call the most memorable port day of our trip. Still, I should note that independent planning saved us considerably over the ship excursion prices, which ran $150-200 per person for similar activities.
As our ship pulled away from Port Victoria that evening, I stood on the upper deck and watched Mahé recede into the Indian Ocean twilight. The granite peaks caught the last of the sun, turning gold and then violet. I realized what the Seychelles had given us wasn't just beautiful scenery — it was a reminder of how the world looked before we complicated it. The beaches aren't special because they're photogenic. They're special because they're honest. No development, no pretension, no attempt to be anything other than what they are.
Looking back, I learned something unexpected in the Seychelles. I went expecting paradise — the brochure version, all turquoise water and coconut palms. What I found was something more valuable: a place where nature still has the final word, where a tortoise older than any living human can teach a child about patience, and where the simple act of grilling a fish caught that morning constitutes genuine hospitality. The Seychelles taught me that the best places on earth aren't the ones trying hardest to impress you. They're the ones that simply are what they are, and trust you to notice. Sometimes you travel a thousand miles from anywhere to discover what matters was always within reach — the warmth of sun on stone, the taste of salt air, the sound of waves on a beach that has looked exactly this way for ten thousand years.
The Cruise Port
Port Victoria on Mahé is the only cruise port in the Seychelles and serves as the main gateway to the archipelago. The port is a working commercial facility with basic passenger amenities including a small terminal building, restrooms, and a taxi stand. Ships dock directly at the pier — no tender required. Downtown Victoria is approximately 15-20 minutes on foot from the terminal, making it one of the most walkable port-to-city transitions in the Indian Ocean region.
Seychelles National Botanical Gardens — 2 Hours
Giant Aldabra tortoises, endemic palms including the famous coco de mer (largest seed in the world), fruit bat colonies, and hundreds of tropical species. Ten minutes from port on foot. Entry 100 SCR ($7) per person. Cool morning visit recommended — allow 1-2 hours. The tortoises are ancient, patient, and utterly charming — you can feed them lettuce purchased at the entrance. Mostly flat paths with moderate accessibility for wheelchair users. An independent visit is far more cost-effective than a ship excursion covering the same ground.
Victoria Downtown Walk — 2 Hours
The world's smallest capital city offers a pleasant morning stroll. See the Little Ben clock tower (1903), the colorful Hindu temple, the covered area where vendors sell fresh fish, spices, and tropical fruit. Free to explore. Easy walk from the port. Allow 1-2 hours for browsing and photography. Low to moderate walking difficulty on mostly flat terrain.
Sainte Anne Marine National Park — Half Day
Clear-water snorkeling and glass-bottom boat trips to protected waters surrounding six islands. Sea turtles, tropical fish, pristine coral gardens. Half-day tours from approximately €70-100 per person including equipment. Book ahead through your cruise line or local operators at the port. Marine life visibility is excellent year-round. This is one excursion where a ship excursion may be worth considering for the guaranteed return time, as independent boats occasionally run behind schedule. Moderate activity level — swimming ability required for snorkeling.
Morne Seychellois National Park — Half to Full Day
Mountain rainforest covering 20% of Mahé. Hiking trails through endemic flora, mountain vistas, cloud forest at higher elevations. Mission Lodge viewpoint offers panoramic views where Queen Elizabeth II took tea in 1972. Requires taxi ($25) plus hiking. Half-day for viewpoints only, full-day for serious trails. Strenuous activity with steep, uneven terrain. Bring water, rain jacket, and sturdy footwear. Not accessible for wheelchair users or those with mobility limitations. Entry free.
Arul Mihu Navasakthi Vinayagar Temple — 30 Minutes
Colorful Hindu temple in the heart of Victoria with an ornate gopuram tower and intricate painted sculptures. Reflects the Seychelles' multicultural heritage blending African, Asian, and European influences. Free entry (donations welcome). Respectful dress required — cover shoulders and knees. Twenty-minute visit adds meaningful cultural depth to your port day. Flat access, wheelchair accessible at ground level.
Getting Around
Taxis: Available at the port terminal and throughout Victoria. Fares are unmetered — agree on the price before departure. A taxi from Port Victoria to Beau Vallon Beach costs approximately 250-350 SCR ($17-25). Full-day taxi hire runs 2,500-3,500 SCR ($170-240) and is the most practical option for covering multiple destinations on Mahé. Drivers generally speak English and French and can serve as informal guides.
Walking: Victoria is compact and walkable from the port. The Botanical Gardens, Sir Selwyn Selwyn-Clarke Market, Hindu temple, and clock tower are all within a 20-minute walk. Sidewalks exist but are uneven in places. The tropical heat makes morning walks most comfortable — carry water and sunscreen.
Rental Cars: Available from agencies in Victoria, but impractical for a single port day. Seychelles drives on the left. Mountain roads are narrow and winding. Better to hire a taxi with driver who knows the roads.
Local Buses: The SPTC bus network covers most of Mahé at 7 SCR ($0.50) per ride. Buses run roughly every 20-30 minutes on main routes. The Victoria bus station is a 10-minute walk from the cruise terminal. Useful for Beau Vallon Beach (Route 22) but schedules can be unreliable. Not recommended if you have a tight ship departure.
Accessibility: Victoria's town center is mostly flat and navigable for wheelchair users, though sidewalks are inconsistent. Beaches have sand access only — no boardwalks or accessible ramps. The Botanical Gardens has paved paths suitable for mobility aids. Mountain trails and national parks are not wheelchair accessible.
Excursions
Beau Vallon Beach — Half Day
The most popular beach on Mahé, a wide crescent of white sand backed by palms on the northwest coast. The water is warm, calm, and turquoise. Beach restaurants serve grilled fish and Creole curries with your feet in the sand. Snorkel gear rental available at beachside shops for 100-150 SCR ($7-10). The beach is a 20-minute taxi ride from the port, or take SPTC Bus Route 22 for 7 SCR. Sunsets here are extraordinary — if your ship departs late, time your visit accordingly. Water sports operators on the beach offer parasailing, jet ski rentals, and kayak hire, though these are pricier than in most destinations.
Seychelles National Botanical Gardens — 2 Hours
Giant Aldabra tortoises, endemic palms including the coco de mer (the largest seed in the world), fruit bat colonies, and tropical species. A 10-minute walk from port. Entry 100 SCR ($7). The tortoises are ancient and patient — you can feed them lettuce from the entrance. Mostly flat paths, moderate wheelchair accessibility.
Sainte Anne Marine National Park — Half Day
Protected waters surrounding six islands with snorkeling, glass-bottom boat trips, sea turtles, and pristine coral gardens. Half-day tours from approximately €70-100 per person including equipment. Marine life visibility is excellent year-round. Moderate activity — swimming ability required for snorkeling.
Morne Seychellois National Park — Half to Full Day
Mountain rainforest covering 20% of Mahé with hiking trails, endemic flora, and cloud forest at higher elevations. Mission Lodge viewpoint offers panoramic views. Requires taxi ($25) plus hiking. Strenuous terrain with steep, uneven paths. Bring water, rain jacket, and sturdy footwear. Not wheelchair accessible.
Victoria Market and Town Walk — 2 Hours
The covered market sells fresh fish, tropical fruit, spices, and local crafts. The Little Ben clock tower (1903), the colorful Hindu temple, and the narrow streets around Market Street offer a morning of unhurried exploration. Free to walk. Easy, flat terrain from the port.
Booking guidance: Compare your ship excursion options with independent operators at the port. A ship excursion guarantees a guaranteed return to the ship but costs 30-50% more. For Beau Vallon Beach and Victoria, independent exploration is low-risk since taxis are readily available and distances short. For Sainte Anne Marine Park, book ahead through your cruise line or a licensed operator to ensure a timely return. Local operators at the port offer competitive rates and can coordinate with your ship's schedule.
Where to Eat & Drink
- Grilled Fish ($-$$): Red snapper, tuna, bourgeois (parrotfish) — fresh from the ocean, grilled with Creole spices. Beach restaurants at Beau Vallon specialize in this. Expect 150-300 SCR ($10-20) per plate.
- Octopus Curry ($$): Seychellois staple — tender octopus in rich coconut curry sauce served with rice. Found at local restaurants in Victoria and beach areas. Around 200 SCR ($14).
- Ladob ($): Sweet dessert of plantains or breadfruit cooked in coconut milk with nutmeg and vanilla. Comfort food served at local eateries. About 50 SCR ($3.50).
- Shark Chutney ($): Unique Seychellois specialty — boiled shark meat with lime (bilimbi fruit) and turmeric. Acquired taste but culturally significant.
- Fresh Tropical Fruit ($): Breadfruit, papaya, passion fruit, star fruit, jackfruit — absurdly fresh and sweet. Available from street vendors for 20-50 SCR.
- Seybrew & Takamaka Rum ($$): Local beer (light lager, about 50 SCR/$3.50) and locally distilled coconut rum. Takamaka Bay distillery makes excellent aged rums and offers tours.
Budget tip: Eating at local takeaway spots in Victoria is significantly cheaper than beach restaurants. A full Creole lunch plate costs about 80-120 SCR ($6-8) in town versus 250-400 SCR at beachfront restaurants.
Depth Soundings Ashore
Practical tips before you step off the ship.
Bring reef-safe sunscreen — the Seychelles protects its marine ecosystems seriously. Chemical sunscreens are banned in marine parks, and enforcement is real. Purchase mineral-based sunscreen before your trip, as options on the islands are limited and expensive.
US Dollars and Euros are accepted widely, but change will always be given in Seychellois Rupees. ATMs are available in Victoria but bring some cash for vendors and taxi drivers who may not accept cards. Credit cards work at larger restaurants and shops.
Mahé has 68 beaches — if Beau Vallon feels crowded, ask your taxi driver for quieter alternatives. Local drivers know hidden coves and seasonal conditions that no guidebook covers. Anse Royale and Anse Intendance are excellent alternatives.
Giant tortoises at the Botanical Gardens are ancient and gentle — never climb on them or touch their heads. Feeding lettuce is encouraged and part of the experience. The tortoises are unbothered by visitors but deserve respect.
Weather changes quickly in the tropics. Carry a light rain jacket — showers pass fast but soak thoroughly. Humidity is high year-round, so cotton or moisture-wicking fabrics are essential for comfort. Snorkeling gear rental is available at beaches for about €10, and marine life visibility remains excellent year-round.
Wheelchair users will find Victoria's main streets reasonably accessible, though side streets and beach paths present challenges. Beau Vallon has a paved access point at the main entrance. The Botanical Gardens have mostly flat paths suitable for mobility aids.
Practical Information
- Currency: Seychelles Rupee (SCR); $1 = ~14 SCR; USD and EUR widely accepted
- Language: Seychellois Creole, English, French (all official; English widely spoken)
- Time Zone: Seychelles Time (SCT), UTC+4
- Weather: Tropical; warm year-round 24-31°C. Drier May-Sep, wetter Nov-Mar.
- Port Type: Port Victoria on Mahé; ships dock directly at pier
- Tender: Not required — pier docking
- Driving: Left side (British style); roads mountainous and winding
- Accessibility: Main streets and beaches partially accessible. Botanical Gardens mostly flat. Hill areas and some beaches not wheelchair accessible.
Photo Gallery
Image Credits
- seychelles-clock-tower.webp: Unsplash
All images used with permission. Photo credits link to original sources.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Where do cruise ships dock in Seychelles?
A: Ships dock at Port Victoria on Mahé island. Downtown Victoria is 15-20 minutes walking distance. Taxis are available immediately at the terminal exit. No tender required.
Q: Which beach should I visit with limited time?
A: Beau Vallon Beach (15 minutes by taxi, approximately 300 SCR/$20) is the best choice for cruise visitors. It has facilities, restaurants, snorkeling, and calm water. For adventure seekers, Anse Intendance offers dramatic surf and solitude (30 minutes by taxi).
Q: Can I see giant tortoises?
A: Yes. The Seychelles National Botanical Gardens (10 minutes walk from port) has Aldabra giant tortoises over 100 years old. You can interact with and feed them lettuce. Entry is approximately 100 SCR ($7) per person.
Q: Is snorkeling worth it in Seychelles?
A: Absolutely. Sainte Anne Marine National Park offers excellent snorkeling with sea turtles, rays, and pristine coral. Half-day tours cost approximately €70-100 per person including equipment. Book ahead for guaranteed availability.
Q: What currency should I bring?
A: The Seychelles Rupee (SCR) is official, but USD and EUR are widely accepted. ATMs in Victoria dispense Rupees. Taxis and small vendors prefer cash. Credit cards work at larger establishments.
Q: Is independent exploration practical or should I book a ship excursion?
A: Independent exploration is straightforward in the Seychelles. Victoria is walkable, taxis are safe and available, and English is widely spoken. However, for marine park trips, a ship excursion guarantees your return time, which provides peace of mind.
Q: What's the best time of year to visit?
A: April-May and October-November offer the calmest weather between monsoons. May through September is the dry season with southeast trade winds — good for beaches and hiking. December through March brings warmer temperatures with occasional heavy tropical showers.
Q: Is the Seychelles accessible for wheelchair users?
A: Partially. Victoria's main streets and the port area are reasonably accessible. Beau Vallon has a paved access point. However, many beaches require walking on sand or over rocks, and mountain trails are not wheelchair accessible. The Botanical Gardens have mostly flat paths.