I wasn't sure what to expect when our ship approached Sihanoukville Autonomous Port, Cambodia's only deep-water harbor. The coastline stretched before us in a hazy arc—beaches, construction cranes, and beyond it all, the promise of islands I'd heard whispered about in travelers' tales. This city, named after King Norodom Sihanouk, has become something of a paradox: a beach resort undergoing dramatic transformation while its outlying islands remain pristine and timeless.

The Gulf of Thailand lapped gently against the hull as we docked, warm and turquoise, inviting. I'd come to understand that Sihanoukville itself is less a destination than a doorway—a threshold to experiences both grounded and transcendent. The mainland beaches offer their own pleasures, certainly, but it's the islands that call to those of us who seek something more elemental.

What struck me most was the contrast. Here was a port city rapidly evolving, its skyline punctuated by construction, its streets bustling with energy and commerce, yet just a speedboat ride away lay some of Southeast Asia's most untouched island beaches. This duality, I've come to believe, is Sihanoukville's unexpected gift.

Port Essentials

Ships dock at Sihanoukville Autonomous Port, a substantial facility that handles both commercial and cruise traffic. The terminal itself is functional rather than charming—this is a working port first, tourist gateway second. From here, the main beach areas lie 3-4 kilometers away, an easy taxi or tuk-tuk ride through streets that range from smooth to decidedly rough.

Taxis and tuk-tuks queue at the port entrance, and I found the drivers generally honest and helpful. Negotiate your fare before departing—$5-7 to the main beaches is reasonable. Many drivers speak basic English and are happy to arrange return trips or even full-day tours to the islands.

Currency in Sihanoukville operates on what I call the "dual system." While the official currency is the Cambodian Riel, US Dollars are not just accepted but often preferred. I carried small USD bills—ones, fives, and tens—which proved ideal. Change may come back in a mix of dollars and riel. ATMs near the beaches dispense USD reliably.

For internet access, beachfront cafes and restaurants offer WiFi, though speeds can be inconsistent. I purchased a local SIM card at a small shop near Ochheuteal Beach for about $5, which provided data coverage for maps and messaging throughout my visit.

Top Experiences

Escape to Koh Rong Samloem

If your time in port allows for only one experience, make it Koh Rong Samloem. This island, about 40 minutes by speedboat from Serendipity Beach pier, represents everything beautiful about Cambodia's islands before mass tourism arrives. Saracen Bay's white sand and turquoise water are stunning, yes, but it's the quiet that seeps into your soul. I spent hours simply floating, watching small fish dart beneath me, the jungle-covered hills rising behind the beach. Tour operators at the pier offer round-trip tickets ($20-25) with several departure times. Go early, stay late.

Explore Koh Rong's Beaches

Koh Rong, the larger neighbor island, offers more development and variety than Samloem but remains wonderfully unspoiled by global standards. Long Beach (aptly named at over 7 kilometers) became my favorite—far quieter than the main village area, accessible by foot or boat. The sand is powder-soft, the water shallow and warm. I walked for an hour and encountered perhaps a dozen other souls. Several beachfront bungalows serve cold drinks and fresh seafood. The bioluminescent plankton in the water at night are legendary, though day-trippers like us miss that particular magic.

Discover Otres Beach's Laid-Back Charm

On the mainland, Otres Beach feels like Sihanoukville's calmer, more thoughtful sibling. Located south of the main tourist beaches, Otres attracts those seeking a slower pace. The beach stretches for a couple of kilometers, lined with small guesthouses, beachfront restaurants, and hammocks strung between palms. I found a quiet spot, ordered grilled fish and a cold Angkor beer, and watched the afternoon drift by. The water here is swimmable, if less pristine than the islands. This is where I'd come if I wanted to simply be still for a few hours.

Take a Boat Through Ream National Park

Ream National Park, about 18 kilometers east of the port, offers a completely different perspective on Cambodia's coastal ecology. I arranged a boat tour through the mangrove channels, where the water turns brackish and the forest presses in from both sides. Our guide pointed out crab-eating macaques in the branches, egrets stalking the shallows, and explained the vital role mangroves play in protecting the coastline. We emerged into a river mouth where local fishing boats worked their nets. The tour took about three hours and cost $30 including transport from the port—money well spent for anyone interested in natural ecosystems.

Visit Wat Leu Temple

For a dose of culture and remarkable views, the hilltop temple complex of Wat Leu rises above the city's northern edge. I hired a tuk-tuk for the winding climb and found a peaceful Buddhist temple decorated in vibrant colors, with monks going about their daily routines. But it's the panoramic view that justifies the journey—the entire sweep of Sihanoukville's coastline, the Gulf of Thailand spreading to the horizon, the islands visible in the distance. I sat in the shade of the main temple, watching clouds drift over the water, and felt the city's frenetic energy fall away.

Explore Ochheuteal and Serendipity Beaches

These adjacent beaches form Sihanoukville's main tourist zone—bustling, commercial, and undeniably energetic. Ochheuteal Beach stretches for several kilometers, lined with restaurants, massage vendors, and beach chair operators. Serendipity Beach, at the northern end, caters more to backpackers and has a party atmosphere. I found the water here perfectly swimmable, if busier than elsewhere. These beaches are convenient if you're short on time—you can be here within 20 minutes of the port—and the seafood restaurants serve excellent grilled fish and prawns. Just don't expect tranquility.

Sihanoukville Area Map

Interactive map showing cruise terminal and Sihanoukville attractions. Click any marker for details.

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Getting Around

Sihanoukville is not a walking city, at least not between major points. Distances are too great and infrastructure too uneven. Tuk-tuks became my primary transport, and I learned to negotiate confidently but fairly. From the port to any beach: $5-7. Around town between beaches: $3-5. A full day with a driver who'll wait for you: $25-35.

For island trips, speedboat ferries depart from the pier near Serendipity Beach. Multiple operators run similar schedules to Koh Rong and Koh Rong Samloem, with boats leaving every hour or two throughout the day. I bought tickets from a small booth at the pier—$20 round-trip to Samloem, $25 to Koh Rong. The boats are fast, reasonably comfortable, and surprisingly punctual.

Some cruise visitors arrange private boat charters for island hopping, which offers more flexibility but costs significantly more—$100-150 for a half-day private boat. If you're traveling with a group, this can be worth the investment for the freedom to explore multiple beaches at your own pace.

Motorcycle rentals are available in town, and I saw several adventurous souls navigating the roads. I'd advise caution—traffic is chaotic, road conditions vary wildly, and Cambodia drives on the right. If you're comfortable on a bike and want to explore beyond the main beaches, it's an option, but know the risks.

Local Food & Drink

Cambodia's coastal cuisine revolves around seafood, and Sihanoukville serves it abundantly. The beach restaurants, particularly along Otres and Ochheuteal, offer grilled fish, prawns, squid, and crab at prices that seem almost apologetic. I paid $6 for a whole grilled fish, perfectly seasoned and served with rice and fresh vegetables.

Kuy teav, Cambodia's beloved rice noodle soup, appears on breakfast menus throughout town. I found a small shop near the central market serving steaming bowls for $2, rich with pork broth and fresh herbs. It's comfort food at its finest, warming and restorative.

For adventurous eaters, lok lak (stir-fried beef served with a lime-pepper dipping sauce) and amok (a coconut curry steamed in banana leaves) represent classic Khmer dishes worth trying. Most beachfront restaurants serve both, with varying degrees of authenticity.

Angkor Beer, Cambodia's national brew, flows freely and cheaply—$1-2 for a large bottle in most establishments. It's light, refreshing, and pairs perfectly with beach afternoons. Fresh coconuts ($1) appear everywhere, the vendors expertly machete-ing them open with theatrical flair.

On the islands, dining options are simpler but no less enjoyable. Beachfront shacks serve grilled seafood, fried rice, and cold drinks. I had the best grilled prawns of my trip at a nameless restaurant on Saracen Bay—sweet, smoky, served with just lime and salt.

Pro Tips

• Book island boats early: If your ship docks early enough, head straight to Serendipity pier and catch the first boat to the islands. You'll have the beaches largely to yourself before day-trippers arrive mid-morning. The early light is also spectacular for photography.
• Bring reef-safe sunscreen: Cambodia's coastal waters are ecologically sensitive, and the island beaches particularly so. Reef-safe sunscreen protects both you and the marine environment. I also brought a lightweight long-sleeve swim shirt, which proved invaluable.
• Carry small bills in USD: While larger establishments accept bigger bills, small vendors, tuk-tuk drivers, and island restaurants often struggle with change. A stack of ones and fives in US Dollars makes everything smoother.
• Check your ship's departure time carefully: Sihanoukville is spreading out rapidly, and getting back from the islands or distant beaches takes longer than you might expect. Build in buffer time—missing your ship here would be complicated and expensive.
• Respect local customs at temples: If visiting Wat Leu or other religious sites, dress modestly (shoulders and knees covered) and remove shoes before entering temple buildings. It's basic respect that goes a long way.
• Download offline maps: Internet can be spotty, especially on the islands. Download Google Maps offline coverage for Sihanoukville and the islands before you dock. It saved me more than once.
• Negotiate tour packages: If you want to visit multiple islands or combine island time with Ream National Park, negotiate a package deal with a tour operator at the port or pier. They'll often discount combined activities and handle all logistics.
• Bring a dry bag for island trips: Speedboats to the islands can kick up spray, and getting on/off at the beaches sometimes involves wading. A simple waterproof bag ($10-15 in town) protects phones, cameras, and money.

Frequently Asked Questions