Last reviewed: January 2026
St. John: The Caribbean's Protected Paradise
Two-thirds of this island is national park. Let that sink in. While neighboring islands sprouted resorts and cruise terminals, St. John took a different path — one paved by Laurance Rockefeller, who fell in love with its pristine beaches in the 1950s and donated the land that became Virgin Islands National Park. Today, the island of 4,000 residents remains what the Caribbean once was: forested hillsides dropping to white sand crescents, reefs teeming with life, ruins of sugar plantations reclaimed by jungle, and a pace of life that resists the modern world's relentless acceleration.
Getting here requires intention. Cruise ships don't dock at St. John — they dock at St. Thomas, its more developed neighbor. You must take a taxi to Red Hook, then a ferry across Pillsbury Sound. The 20-minute crossing is worth every minute. As Cruz Bay's small harbor comes into view, the contrast with Charlotte Amalie's cruise ship bustle becomes immediately clear. This is a place that has chosen preservation over profit, and it shows in every unspoiled cove and undeveloped hillside.
Getting to St. John
From your cruise ship docked at St. Thomas, you have two main options. The independent route: taxi from the cruise pier to Red Hook ($15/person, about 30 minutes), then passenger ferry to Cruz Bay ($7.50 each way, departures every hour, 20 minutes crossing). The ship excursion route: book through your cruise line for a package that includes transportation and often Trunk Bay admission.
The ferry deposits you in Cruz Bay, St. John's only real town. From here, open-air safari buses (locally called "taxis") run to beaches around the island. Trunk Bay runs about $8-10/person each way; Cinnamon Bay similarly priced. Alternatively, rent a Jeep if you're comfortable driving on the left side of narrow, steep, winding roads with no guardrails. Most visitors find the taxi system perfectly adequate for a day's beach exploration.
Trunk Bay: The Underwater Trail
Trunk Bay consistently ranks among the world's most beautiful beaches — and it earns that reputation honestly. A perfect crescent of white sand, backed by sea grape trees, with calm turquoise water protected by an offshore reef. The National Park charges $5/person for beach access (cash or card), which includes use of changing facilities and the beach.
The underwater snorkel trail is the highlight: a 225-yard path marked with interpretive signs describing the coral and marine life you're swimming above. Snorkel gear rentals ($8-12) are available on the beach. Even without the trail, the snorkeling here is exceptional — sea turtles, rays, and rainbow-colored fish inhabit these protected waters.
Arrive early if possible. By midday, particularly on busy cruise days, Trunk Bay can feel crowded. The beach opens at 8am; try to catch the 9am or 10am ferry from Red Hook to maximize your time.
Beyond Trunk Bay
St. John rewards exploration. Cinnamon Bay offers a longer beach with camping facilities and watersports rentals. Maho Bay provides easy shore snorkeling directly from the beach — sea turtles frequently graze in the shallows. Salt Pond Bay, at the island's quieter southeastern end, requires a short hike but offers solitude that Trunk Bay cannot.
The Annaberg Sugar Plantation ruins provide a sobering reminder of the island's history — a partially restored 18th-century sugar mill and slave quarters where the National Park offers interpretive programs. The views over Leinster Bay are stunning; the history is important.
Cruz Bay itself deserves an hour. Small restaurants, local shops, and the Mongoose Junction shopping area offer lunch options and souvenirs. The frozen "Painkiller" cocktail originated in these waters — sample one at Woody's or another waterfront spot before catching your ferry back.
Port Map
Tap markers to explore St. John
Frequently Asked Questions
Do cruise ships dock at St. John?
No. Cruise ships dock at St. Thomas. Getting to St. John requires a taxi to Red Hook ($15/person) and ferry to Cruz Bay ($7.50 each way, 20 minutes). Book a ship excursion for seamless transport, or go independently for flexibility.
Do I need a passport for St. John?
No. St. John is a U.S. territory — U.S. citizens travel as they would domestically. U.S. dollars are the currency, and no customs/immigration applies.
Is Trunk Bay worth the hype?
Yes. The underwater snorkel trail, pristine beach, and protected waters live up to the reputation. Go early to beat the crowds. $5 park entrance fee includes facilities.
Should I rent a car on St. John?
Only if you're comfortable driving on the left, on narrow and steep roads. Safari taxis run to all major beaches and are adequate for most day visits. Jeep rentals run $80-120/day.
Until I have sailed this port myself, these notes are soundings in another's wake. This guide draws from published accounts, fellow cruisers, and careful research — but it does not yet carry the weight of my own anchor.