Maui: After the Fire
(Note: as of November 2025 Royal Caribbean is still using Kahului as the Maui port.)
We docked in Kahului's industrial harbor and rented a car – the drive to Iao Valley is only 15 minutes and the needle rising 1,200 ft straight up through the jungle is still jaw-dropping. We continued up to Makawao and Kula for protea farms and lavender fields, then down to Wailea for beach time at Big Beach – golden sand and real waves with almost no one there on a weekday.
Lunch was at Mama's Fish House (worth the 25-minute drive) – opah caught that morning with lilikoi butter that tasted like Maui in a bite. The absence of Lahaina is still heartbreaking, but Maui's natural beauty and aloha spirit are as strong as ever.
Getting Around Maui
Kahului harbor – car rental onsite, essential for anywhere worthwhile.
Positively Worded Word of Warning
Maui traffic on the Hana side can slow – choosing West Maui or Upcountry keeps the day relaxed and beautiful.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Is Maui (Kahului) worth it?
A: Still absolutely – the island is bigger than one town.
Q: Best thing?
A: Iao Valley + Upcountry or partial Road to Hana.
Q: How long for Iao + beaches?
A: 6–7 hours easy.
Q: Walk from port?
A: Only to Costco; car required.